Mike
I had a similar problem until I replaced all the rubber portions of the fuel
lines between the carbs and the fuel pump (got the idea from Jim Altman's
website). Try it to see if it solves your idle drop problem. Even if it
doesn't you've still replaced an old rubber part with a new one which is usually
a good idea on these old cars.
I think the rubber loses it's strength over time and may constrict just enough
to starve the carbs when not under full pumping pressure from the fuel pump. In
any case it seemed to solve my idle drop problem. I'm also going to replace all
of the rubber fuel line between the fuel pump and tank just for preventative
maintenance.
Let me know if you have any luck.
Bud 71TR6 CC57365
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Subject: TR6 Keeps Quitting
Author: "Mike Brinker" <Mike.Brinker@mfasco.com>
Date: 10/28/98 3:42 PM
Has anyone had this problem?
TR6 newly rebuilt engine, carbs etc.. The car idles great. Mixture seems
correct and carbs are balanced. When you rev the car, it sounds great and
drops right down to the correct idle of about 800 rpm.
Here is the problem. When you drive the car and run it for a mile or so,
then try and stop by pressing in the clutch and braking, the idle drops down
to about 300 or less and many times the car stalls (quits). This happens
all of the time. If you try and give it a bit of gas (push on the
accelerator) to keep the idle up, it might not stall, but takes a minute to
recover to a good steady idle.
I have removed most of the emissions, but do have vacuum to the carbs still
connected.
Does anyone have any suggestions? This is really bothering me. As a matter
of fact, I took it to a reputable mechanic, and he has a TVR (with a TR6
engine) doing the same thing. He can't figure it out either.
Thanks In Advance
Mike Brinker
Mike's TR6 World
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