Ed,
Much appreciation to you and others for helping to solve my clutch problem -
could not have done it without you.
Following your advice, I checked the position of the slave and sure enough, my
#@#$% previous lbc mechanic committed yet one more obvious and potentially
dangerous blunder on my car and installed the slave on the engine side, rather
than the gearbox side. And this is a guy who should know better; he works on
many Los Angeles area club members TRs and owns a couple himself.....
Once I got the slave off and positioned correctly on the gearbox side, the
geometry started making a lot of sense (I gained the inch I was looking for
earlier). After I hooked everything back up, installed a new hose for good
measure, and bled the system, the car now shifts like a dream.
Thanks again,
Jordan Robinson
Ed Woods wrote:
> Jordan,
>
> The clevis fork should be adjusted to take up all but .1 inch (1/10) of the
> one inch play you now have. You have found your problem. Make sure that the
> slave cylinder piston is fully home is its bore too.
>
> In other words, when you depress the clutch pedal the only free movement is
> that which takes up this first .1 inch of travel. All your slave cylinder
> movement from that point on serves to disengage the clutch.
>
> .1 inch is not critical. When you think about it, you're just trying to make
> sure that some clearance exists so that the throwout bearing is not
> continually riding against the pressure plate thus wearing both prematurely.
> Also you don't want it to be excessive which wastes the slave cylinder
> movement taking up unnecessary slack (your problem).
>
> The return spring serves to return the piston to the bottom of the slave
> cylinder to insure this clearance that you've set.
>
> If you can't adjust the arm to make it long enough to remove this 1" travel,
> check to see that the slave is mounted to the rear of its bracket. Also look
> at the threaded arm itself to see if some DPO has shortened it by grinding
> off material.
>
> Would like to hear how you make out. Get back to me on this please.
>
> Regards,
>
> Ed
>
> From: J. Robinson <jrobins@nwc.net>
>
> To: Ed Woods <fogbros@nb.net>; triumphs@autox.team.net
> <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Date: Saturday, September 05, 1998 9:57 PM
> Subject: Re: TR4 hydraulics
>
> >Ed,
> >
> >Thanks for your response. I have a couple more questions if you do not
> mind.
> >When you talk about removing the play between the gearbox arm and the
> slave, are
> >you refering to the play between the clevis fork and the furthest point the
> >gearbox arm can extend moving towards the slave, or the play in the
> gearbox arm
> >itself?
> >
> >I am asking because I was under the car today and found that the gearbox
> arm
> >itself freely travels a good inch (moving away from the slave) before I
> can no
> >longer move it by hand (the point where it starts to engage the clutch).
> I
> >also notice this inch of free travel while driving. Should I adjust the
> clevis
> >fork so that it takes up the inch of play in associated with the gearbox
> arm
> >itself, or simply adjust it so it meets the gearbox arm where the arm is
> closest
> >to the slave?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Jordan
> >
> >Ed Woods wrote:
> >
> >> Dennis,
> >>
> >> Don't know if someone's already given you advice, but here's mine:
> >>
> >> If you have a spring type clutch, not diaphragm, the return spring is
> >> required to establish clearance between the throwout bearing and clutch
> >> cover when the clutch is engaged. Assuming you have this type, the clutch
> >> rod between the slave and the arm from the gearbox must be adjustable.
> With
> >> the piston fully home in the slave cylinder, the rod should be capable of
> >> removing all play between the gearbox and the slave. Is it? To adjust:
> with
> >> the piston fully home in the slave, unscrew the rod until all play is
> just
> >> removed. Back the locking nut away from the clevis fork an amount equal
> to
> >> the desired clearance. Put a feeler gauge between the nut and clevis fork
> to
> >> set this. Can't remember the exact distance, check the manual. 60 thou
> would
> >> work. Without moving the nut or fork, remove the rod assembly and screw
> the
> >> clevis fork back until it touches the nut. Re-install. Tighten nut.
> Install
> >> return spring. The spring should serve to hold the rod fully into the
> slave.
> >> If you grab the rod with your hand, you should be able to move it to the
> >> rear by an amount equal to the clearance you just set before the throwout
> >> bearing comes hard up against the clutch pressure plate. You should be
> able
> >> to use the middle or bottom hole in the clutch shaft.
> >>
> >> I assume that: The bolt connecting the fork to the shaft is not broken.
> The
> >> slave cylinder is on the gearbox (rear) side of the mounting bracket. The
> >> slave bleeder is facing up.
> >>
> >> Any questions, please contact me.
> >>
> >> Regards,
> >>
> >> Ed
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: J. Robinson <jrobins@nwc.net>
> >> To: triumphs@autox.team.net <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> >> Date: Thursday, September 03, 1998 12:08 AM
> >> Subject: Re: TR4 hydraulics
> >>
> >> >
> >> >Dennis - if is any consolation, you are not alone. I am having similar
> >> >troubles right now with the clutch on my TR-4. Brand new clutch and pp,
> >> >freshly rebuilt slave and MC - am awaiting delivery of a new hose with
> high
> >> >hopes...........
> >> >
> >> >Jordan Robinson
> >> >TR-4 CT28864
> >> >
> >> >Dennis Barr wrote:
> >> >
> >> >> Hi List: Apologies if this has been around before. I am still having
> >> >> problems getting enough hydraulic pressure to operate my clutch. I
> have
> >> >> a new slave; a White-Post rebuilt MC. Bled and bled system. Works when
> >> >> the return spring is detached- hook up the spring, and "grind grind" .
> I
> >> >> cannot get the thing in gear.
> >> >> I have no leaks. I replaced the pipe and hose today. Neither cylinder
> >> >> shows leaking. How do I determine whether I should reinvest in another
> >> >> clutch slave, or remove (ugh) the clutch MC and send back to White
> Post.
> >> >> Your help is appreciated.
> >> >> Dennis Barr
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >
> >
> >
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