Gordon,
I really don't think that the helicoil will work in this situation. Since
the helicoil is a threaded insert and the wheel stud is a splined shoulder,
the threads would not allow the splines to grab as much metal as they need
to so as to prevent rotation of the stud. And you are right back where you
started from with a spinning stud.
Larry Zink
Z Group Racing and Performance
Houston, Texas
-----Original Message-----
From: Gordon Buck <gbuck@pinnaclegrp.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, September 04, 1998 10:50 AM
Subject: RE: spinning wheel stud
This one is to the list in general. With regard to Lee's problem with a
spinning wheel stud,what about using a helicoil (sp?). Can that be used on
steel as well as aluminum? I know I had to use them to fix a couple of
pulled out studs on my rear control arm. They seem to do a great job. Any
input would be appreciated.
Gordon Buck
Sultan, Washington
71 TR6 CC62806
67 MGB GT
-----Original Message-----
From: DANMAS@aol.com [SMTP:DANMAS@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, September 04, 1998 6:30 AM
To: lee.k.janssen@lmco.com; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: spinning wheel stud
In a message dated 98-09-04 07:36:01 EDT, lee.k.janssen@lmco.com writes:
> After removing a spinning wheel stud on the front hub of my TR6 I noticed
> that the hole is enlarged to the point where the new stud does not
generate
> a tolerance fit. As a result if I insert a new stud it will only be a
matter
> of time before it too will start spinning. Since a new hub is $190 I was
> wondering if anyone has a way to cure this problem.
Lee,
One option is to use a larger stud, either a larger diameter, or one with a
larger knurl diameter if you can find one. Take the hub to a machine shop to
drill out the holes to fit.
This morning, I'm taking the hubs from my TR6/Ford 302 to the machine shop
to
have 1/2" studs installed, to match the 1/2" studs on the Ford 9" rear end
I'm
using. Both the stock wheels and the Panasports I'm using will accept the
1/2"
studs with no problem. Lug nuts are available that will at least nearly
match
the stock nuts, but you may have to buy 16 new ones to get a perfect match.
I'll let you know this afternoon what success I have, and how much it cost.
The studs cost me $9.
If the hole is not too large (but from your description, it sounds like it
is), the use of one of the stronger Loctite compounds may help.
Dan Masters,
Alcoa, TN
'71 TR6---------3000mile/year driver, fully restored
'71 TR6---------undergoing full restoration and Ford 5.0 V8 insertion - see:
http://www.sky.net/~boballen/mg/Masters/
'74 MGBGT---3000mile/year driver, original condition - slated for a V8 soon
'68 MGBGT---organ donor for the '74
|