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Re: draught tube

To: Malcolm Walker <walker05@camosun.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: draught tube
From: Alan Myers <reagntsj@ricochet.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 00:56:15 -0700
Cc: The Usual Suspects <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Organization: Coldwell Banker Residential Real Estate
References: <Pine.OSF.3.95.980728142934.29507B-100000@ccins.camosun.bc.ca>
I looked at your web page, Malcolm. You do have some rust to deal with!
You need a little more "British undercoating"... loosen the valve cover
and sump bolts and go for a drive!

I wouldn't be too quick to bore new holes.

On TR4, the rust in-between the front fender and the footwell wall is
usually due to the failure of the rubber seal on the outer edge of the
bulkhead at the rear of the front wheel well, where it meets the outer
fender. Once there are a few gaps, half of everything thrown up by the
front tire makes it's way in there & you get something looking like a
swamp inside. It stays wet constantly & would rust through a battleship.

Last time I had my TR4's fenders off, the driver's side was actually
more rusted.  I think the drain on the other side helped to wash out
some of the muck. Just thoroughly clean out the muck, replace the sheet
metal and/or stabilize the rust and spray on lots of Rust-o-leum. I used
spray undercoating on top of a couple coats of anti-rust primer, but I'm
not sure that's the best idea (no rust in 25 years, though). I've
recently found a rubberized spray I would try. It's called PolyShield,
by a company named Aervoe Pacific, somewhere in Nevada, customer service
at 1 800 227-0196 might be able to give you the name of a distributor in
your area.  This is the same stuff you can buy in cans to dip tool
handles in to make rubberized grips. Comes in a variety of colors, but
who cares since you can't see that inner area anyway! Supposed to be
weatherproof. I found it took 2 weeks to completely dry on some parts!
Oh, put in a new rubber seals (Moss #680-410, Brit Vic #9-798, about $4
ea.) between that bulkhead & fender, too, making sure it seals as best
as possible. A little Liquid Rubber or Silicone sealer probably wouldn't
hurt, either.

If you do choose to route that drain hose, you should be able to turn it
back under the car, through the inner fender, rather than through the
rocker panel.

Does anyone have refernce to '62 color codes? I think my car was
originally white (in a past life). There is an "L" after the chassis #
that I think indicates this. (It was "Porsche" orange when I bought it,
signal red a very short time later and ever since! I'm considering going
back to white during the current rebuild.)

Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 #CT17602 (registered 1964)


 Malcolm Walker wrote:

> I am going to rout a drain hole for my scuttle vent drain.  Right now
> it
> sticks down and rains into the space between the footwell and the
> front
> fender.  I have the hose, conections, and ability to bore holes in my
> (new) rocker.
>
> How should I cut the end of the hose to make sure it doesn't whistle
> at
> speed?  I know there's a "trick" to it, but I don't know what it is.
>
> -Malcolm
> '62 TR4



--
MZ



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