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RE: Oil pressure gauge line

To: Peter Zaborski <peterz@merak.com>
Subject: RE: Oil pressure gauge line
From: Allen Nugent <A.Nugent@unsw.edu.au>
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 13:20:18 +1000 (EST)
Cc: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
Peter,

The tube is thin, and longer than necessary, so the vibrational strain per
unit length would be small, and the inclination of copper to work-harden is
probably irrelevant. Also, it leaves the oil transfer housing near the base
of the block, at about the same height as the motor mounts: so, the
vibration of the tube is of small amplitude. It passes through a grommet in
the firewall (I had a spare hole, but it could easily have shared an
existing one). The extra length of the line I coiled under the dash; I
didn't want more slack than necessary hanging around the engine bay (I
snagged it on my steering linkage, instead!)

My Moss oil cooler kit included a replacement for the oil transfer housing
(which sounds a lot fancier than it is) that had 2 tapped holes for the
hoses. With the Moss oil pressure line, I got a Y-adaptor, which I placed in
between the transfer housing and the outlet (to the radiator) hose.
Therefore, I am measuring the pressure at the output from the oil pump,
rather than as supplied to the engine, but I don't imagine there's much
pressure drop through the hot radiator.

I bought a Smith's dual-function gauge: water temperature + oil pressure. I
already had the water temp gauge on the instrument pod, so I put the temp
sensor in the oil sump (drilled a hole in the side and got a guy to MIG a
big nut onto it). 

I brought both lines (temp and oil) through the same grommet, although they
originated on different sides of the engine.

PS. I recommend teflon tape on the fittings, unless you like one knee of
your trousers to be brown (I have 3 pairs of jeans that way!)

Allen Nugent
Graduate School of Biomedical Engineering
University of New South Wales
Sydney  2052  Australia


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