Perry,
If you don't have an "easy out" you can try drilling a small indent in the
remaining stud surface off center but away from the threads. Insert the point
of
a punch in that hole and tap with a hammer. The punch should be angled so that
the force of each tap tries to cause the remaining stud to back out of it's
threaded socket. Once they break free, they've been fairly easy to remove when
I've tried this in the past. Be cautious about getting too close to the
threads. Letting it soak in light oil should help.
I just got finished removing one from my TR3 that left me enough stub to get a
small pipe wrench on the remaining stud. At first I thought it twisted off
flush
with the head.
On the negative side, last year I twisted off an "easy out" in an exhaust
manifold stud. I ended up taking the manifold to a machinist to remove the
hardened "easy out" and the stud. He was able to put a threaded insert in the
hole after he removed all the junk. I'm still using that manifold. The point
being, if it gets worse you still may have options other than a new head.
Victor Michael wrote:
> Perry,
>
> You will find that an "easy out" is a very, very useful tool! It is a coarse
> (swirly looking), reverse threaded bit which you can use manually with a
> wrench (if the bolt is difficult), or with a drill.
>
> You should be able to get at the broken end of the bolt with a drill bit, the
> size I would say should be about 1/4 to 1/3 the size the bolt itself (as the
> "easy out" should be). First, drill a hole into the broken end of the bolt
> being careful not to angle it into to any sides, so you won't damage the
> thread. You may have to guess at the depth, but you only need enough for the
> "easy out" to fit into the hole enough to grab. Next, if you're using a
> wrench, place the "easy out" bit into the hole and turn counter-clockwise so
> it grabs the broken bolt and hopefully then by turning counter-clockwise the
> end of the bit with the wrench, the bolt will back out. If you're using a
> drill (like I do, because my jobs are usually smaller); with the bit on the
> drill, place the bit into the drilled hole and (hopefully you have a
> reversible, variable speed drill with lots of power) begin slowly, so the bit
> will grab and back the bolt out.
>
> It's pretty simple. Hopefully I haven't wasted your reading time by
> misunderstanding your dilemma.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Vic
>
> On Sunday, July 12, 1998 9:59 PM, chammock@iquest.net
> [SMTP:chammock@iquest.net] wrote:
> >
> > Well, the weekend was TOO good. Beautiful weather, long rides in
> > the car, having a great time. Decided to change the oil today, just
> > because
> > the car deserved it. After the change, was looking under the hood and
> > noticed teh nut on the number 1 cylinder front exhaust stud was about half
> > backed off. No problem got the wrench to tighten it. The stud was broken,
> > apparently at the end of the threads on the engine side.
> >
> > Any way to get this out without major dismantling? I hate to start serious
> > drilling etc without knowing what Im getting into. I also dont want to
> > have
> > to dismantle the engine just now. It appears that this is no new break.
> > THe metal was not fresh at the break.
> >
> > I appreciate your assistance in advance. Thanks!
> >
> > Perry Hammock
> > Little green TR3 - but Im a bit blue just now.
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