>Is the problem worse with an empty tank than full? My thoughts turn more to
>the fuel supply than the choke. Sticky float valve? Float heights set right?
>Your note is ambiguous on what you did to the fuel pump. Why would the choke
>be affected by the angle its at?
Nope, no worse on an empty tank. And I just put in a new float valve
and the floats themselves look fine. I wasn't thinking so much about
the angle produced by hills but rather the load on the engine. If
I'm running too lean could the extra load be a problem? I have to
admit that that doesn't sound too likely. And I think I may be
running a little rich now as it is. As for the pump, I cleaned the
little bit of debris from the screen and watched it squirt when I
turned over the engine. Seemed to be pumping okay.
>
>
>
>Jim Altman jaltman@altlaw.com Illigitimi non Carborundum
>http://www.altlaw.com/metro/jaltman.html 69-TR6#CC28754L W4UCK
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net
>[mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Tim Gaines
>Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 1998 4:40 PM
>To: triumphs@autox.team.net
>Subject: Spit 1500--automatic choke
>
>
>
>I've been off this list for awhile, but I'm back with a question
>(what else?). My 1980 Spit 1500 with Stromberg carb and automatic
>choke started giving me problems on hills several months ago.
>Sometimes it would simply cut out and only catch up when I was
>nearly at a standstill. It always started easily and ran well
>except every once in awhile on hills, particularly after running
>it, parking for a few minutes, and then running it again. I
>replaced the fuel filter and the fuel pump seemed to be okay,
>but the problem continued. I ordered a carb rebuild kit and
>finished the job a few days ago. I struggled a bit to get
>the carb tuned (questions about that below), but even when
>the car idles beautifully and runs smoothly on level ground it
>still chokes and cuts out on hills. In fact, it does it more
>consistently now than before.
>
>Questions:
>
>1) The bi-metal spring used in the automatic choke must be way
> out of calibration. Whenever I adjust it as per instructions
> using the scribed mark on the housing, it never works well. I
> have been doing it by trial and error. Recently I took the
> heat mass, stuck it in the freezer, and painted a mark on the
> housing to indicate where the spring pointed. Then I did the
> same thing after immersing it in boiling water. So now I
> know a little something about the extent of movement I get
> over that range. So, is there any way to know how to line
> things up?
>
>2) Assuming that I know how to set the choke, what is the sequence
> of steps for tuning the carb? Can I start it cold and adjust
> the fast idle screw to get a reasonable rpm and then adjust
> the throttle stop screw after it is warm? And where does the
> mixture adjustment (adjustable needle on the air valve) come in?
> I have been thinking that my problem on hills might be due to
> an incorrect mixture. Is that possible?
>
>Thanks for any help you can give.
>
>Tim Gaines
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