>under acceleration with His six, and when acceleration ended suddenly,
>the car would have a tendency to want to wander around as the torque changed
Throttle steer, this is generally a symptom of excessively powered cars...
In the case of the TR6, this is a symptom of worn trailing arm bushings
casing the actual alignment of the rear tires to vary. This also happens
in S-turns, etc. by the way... Its dangerous and puts excess stress on
the pieces back there while snapping back and forth. Not to mention have
the half-shafts driving the wheels at all sorts of un-natural angles.
I use the TRF Nylatron bushings packed with synthetic grease, the material
is somewhat self-lubing and comes with the shims to adjust the side t-
side clearance. The poly works just as well, but the material isn't
self-lubing and the BPNW kit comes with NO shims. I use BPNW poly diff
mounts and poly shock link mounts with the TRF Nylatron bushings.
While back there install new brake lines, new slip joint boots (grease these)
new Apple Heavy Duty rebuilt levers with NEW shock links. I use stock
springs with shims as required, the stiffening of everything else gives
you a crisp ride without the jarring and ride height problems of all the
"uprated" springs... crispness, not stiffness.
The trailing arms can be removed by pulling the outside hinge pin, removing
one of the inside bracket bolts and rotating till you can slide the inside
hinge pin over the frame... I leave the emergency line hooked up and pivot
the whole mess outward to get to the bushings with the 8" Craftsman C-clamp
and block of wood.
If you're replacing original bushings, you'll note the rear bumper raises
at least 1". If you look at these sagging things you can see the sag
in the hinge joint...
Roger
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Roger G. Bolick, rgb@exact.com 512-794-9567, FAX 512-345-2879
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