Tom,
If you've had the transmission out of the car, you may want to
check if you remembered to reinstall the ground strap which goes
between the firewall and one of the transmission mounting bolts.
The choke cable makes a lousy return path for the starting current
between the engine block and the negative battery terminal.
Don't ask me how I know!
-- Flemming Larsen, CF27518U flarsen@earthlink.net
At 13:48 05/25/98, maineac wrote:
O.K., here I am at the end of my rope (or is it wire?), trying to figure
out what's stopping my starter motor from "doin' its thang". I'll start
at the beginning - I have a '73 TR6 that gets some major thing done to it
each Winter, and then goes back on the road in the Spring. This year it
was the transmission, and since then I have been reassembling it all for
the coming driving season. So far I have sepnt at least a week trying to
get the starter motor to work. Here's what I have done:
1. New battery (Sears Die Hard)
2. "New" rebuilt starter motor (Beck/Arnley)
3. New battery cables (both + and -)
4. Lots of time making sure that all contacts are clean and tight
And here's what happens... when I turn the key to the start position, the
solenoid responds with a satisfying "click", but there is no motion from
the motor. If I use a screwdriver to "bridge" the big lugs on the solenoid
(where the battery cable ataches and where the connection to the motor is),
the motor will turn like it should. If I disconnect the motor from the
bottom solenoid lug, (and use the key) I get a full 12 v at the lug, but if
I reconnect the motor I get ~ 1 v. The battery is still fully charged as
it shows ~ 13 v., and when I trying to start the car (motor connected to
solenoid) the battery shows ~ 12 v. Does any of this make sense? Any
suggestions about what I should try next? I've run out of inspriation, and
am beginning to run a little short on pateince too. Thanks in advance...
Tom ("Sparky") Walling
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