Jeff,
I removed and reinstalled my bonnet/hood this year. It was great having
all the extra room. As to the quick disconnect, let me know the end
result. I'd be concerned that cotter pins might allow too much play.
Perhaps a bolt (sleeved if necessary) with a nyloc nut or double nutted
could be snugged up to allow movement without too much play.
To address a later post in the digest, before removing the hood/bonnet,
I removed and reinstalled each bolt, to make sure I could. I also
scribed the outline of the hinge (or trace with a pencil/pen) to help
with reinstallation. With a person on each side, use your head/shoulder
under the hood and a hand on the leading edge of the hood. Remove all
bolts from the hood/bonnet, except the forward most bolt on each side.
Each person then individually removes the last bolt, supporting the
bonnet for the other person. Lift it away and place the bonnet in the
out of the way padded location you prepared before starting.
Before installation, I ran a tap through each hole to clean the threads
and each bolt through a die. (I could have bought new bolts, but forgot
and had a tight timeline.) Place the appropriate bolts w/ washers
installed at convenient locations and a ratchet at each side. Using a
second person, install the hood in the same manner it was removed. Get
several bolts in to line things up then snug the two forward most
bolts. Line up the hinges with your scribe marks and snug (but not too
tight) all bolts. Slowly lower the hood and check the alignment. If it
is good, tighten everything and check again before allowing the hood to
latch.
I did not remove the hinges from the car. If you do this, you add an
extra step in the alignment process.
I was told this would be a nightmare, but it only took about 15 minutes
and a second person to do the job.
Brian Kemp
72 TR6
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