-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Woods <fogbros@nb.net>
To: JAMES_S_WALLACE@HP-Canada-om1.om.hp.com
<JAMES_S_WALLACE@HP-Canada-om1.om.hp.com>; triumphs@autox.team.net
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, May 12, 1998 3:38 PM
Subject: Re: TRx caged nuts alternatives?
>James,
>
>I bought new cages and nuts from TRF and replaced all the broken ones on my
>TR3. Very simple. I installed all body panels with stainless bolts and
>washers, using anti seize compound wherever these captive nuts were
located.
>Don't weld the nuts to the body, you'll need the "slop" offered by the
caged
>nuts when adjusting the body panels during reassembly. Tip: when welding
the
>new cage to the body, use a long bolt and secure the cage to the body with
a
>second, temporary, nut on the outside of the cage. This method holds the
>cage tight against the body during welding and leaves both your hands free.
>Remove second nut and the long bolt after welding or brazing. Neat and
>original.
>
>Ed Woods
>-----Original Message-----
>From: JAMES_S_WALLACE@HP-Canada-om1.om.hp.com
><JAMES_S_WALLACE@HP-Canada-om1.om.hp.com>
>To: triumphs@autox.team.net <triumphs@autox.team.net>
>Date: Tuesday, May 12, 1998 3:07 PM
>Subject: TRx caged nuts alternatives?
>
>
>>
>> Hi listers,
>>
>> When reassembling the bodies on TRs, what have people done besides
>> using those nuts in cages? Or is the general consensus to use them
>> again and let the next poor sucker worry about it 40 years from now?
>> About 3/4 of the cages on mine had to be destroyed to get the body
>> panels off so I have to figure out what I'll do.
>>
>> I've considered:
>> a) Still using the cages but going to coarse threads,
>> b) Welding the nuts on,
>> c) Switching to stainless nuts,
>> d) Using anti-seize and undercoating,
>> e) Making new cages of thicker material so they don't spread easily,
>or
>> e) Some combination of the above
>>
>> TIA,
>> Jim Wallace
>> 60 TR3a
>>
>
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