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Introduction to Choke cable repair 101

To: chansen@exis.net
Subject: Introduction to Choke cable repair 101
From: "Jack I. Brooks" <brooks@belcotech.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 09:01:03
Cc: Triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
>I bought a new choke cable from Moss to replace the one
from TRF that broke after 1 month of use.  Moss' broke the first
time I used it.  Of course Moss is replacing the defective part.

>Anyone know of a better cable source?  Most 'merican cars don't
require a cable that locks in position since the choke isn't held
closed by a spring, like on our cars.  I thought about using a
cable for the heater, which has this cool hexagon shaft and a ball
that slips into grooves to hold the cable out, but it was too short.

Cliff,

I broke and repaired the choke cable on my TR3.  It took 30 minutes and is
holding up well for at least a year, so far.  Keep in mind, I did this a
year or so ago, so a detail or two might be wrong, but the philosophy will
work fine.

1. Pull the choke cable out.

2. Where the cable enters the solid tube of the mechanism, the joint is a
dimpled crimp.  You will see the dimple.  drill it out, taking care not to
drill through the far side of the tube.  This dimple crimp is all that
holds the cable in. 

3. Remove the cable.  Using a small drill bit, clean out the hole where the
cable was, including the newly drilled hole.

4. Obtain a similarly sized brake or deurallier cable from a bike shop.

5. Using acid free solder, braze the new cable into the housing.  Take care
to limit the amount of solder filling the cable beyond the end of the choke
mehcanism tube, as this could make the cable stiff and/or brittle. 

6. Lube the cable and install.

Cost approx. $3-5.  

Good luck,

Jack Brooks

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