On Thu, 9 Apr 1998 jbonina@nectech.com wrote:
> I've developed a leak that would make the Exxon Valdeze (sp.?) look
> like nothin'
To quote Ken Streeter: "It's not a leak, it's POURING OUT!"
> While my car was up in the air having the tie rods replaced I asked
> Dumbo (the ex-mechanic) to see if he could locate the leak. He said it
> was coming from the oil filter canister. He couldn't tell if the
> canister was 'warped' or exactly why it was leaking.
This is precisely why most oil filters are spin on now. Think of all the
cars in the past that were perfectly fine until that fatal oil change and
the unsuspecting owner of the car destroyed the engines' innards as the
"life blood" poured, no shot, out of the car (it goes out all too fast
when the engine is running...)
> Now, given the source of the information (Dumbo), and also the fact
> that 'twas HE who changed the oil when I initially purchased the car I
> think there a 2 distinct possibilities and 1 remote possibility.
I have news for you. Even when my Dad's first Triumph was new, we had
this problem about every third or fourth oil change. Give your mechanic a
break... go somewhere else for your oil changes.
> 1) The canister was over tightened and the rubber seal is damaged or
> twisted.
Could be.
> 2) Like everything else he did, he probably didn't torque the nut
> correctly (too loose).
Could be.
> 3) the remotely correct answer, something IS wrong with the canister.
Probably not. Unless he used a very large hammer to "adjust" it. The can
is pretty hefty.
> Has anyone ever experienced a "bad" oil filter canister?
No, but I've seen plenty of TR6 oil shooting out on the road after
so-called "qualified" mechanics had changed the oil.
I'll be the problem is either:
1. the guy didn't get the old gasket out (or didn't bother).
2. the guy didn't grease the new gasket so that it bunched up in the
little slot that it is supposed to sit in.
There's a third possibility - that the surfaces where the filter can
meets the gasket was not clean.
The problem here is that LHD cars exported to the US have the steering
column strategically placed right in the way of changing the oil filter.
In fact, it is impossible (at least in my experience) to remove the oil
cannister without removing the fuel pump... and removing the fuel pump is
exactly how our Triumph mechanics used to accomodate this little quirk.
In fact, on at least 5 or more occasions our TR6 would stop running on a
very busy street here in the Boston area about a quarter-mile from the
dealer after we had had an oil change. Every time, it was because the
mechanic had negelcted to reinstall the fuel pump after the oil change.
So, I have two suggestions:
1. go to an electric fuel pump and remove the mechanical one. Cost: $35
and a couple of hours to install it. More money if you want an inertial
shutoff (recommended but not required) and filters...
2. convert to a spin-on filter. This is a little more pricey at around
$50, but then any idiot can change the oil because it looks familiar to
them. With the spin on, you can put the filter hanging down and change it
from beneath the car. I'll point out that there is debate on the Triumph
list as to the best location and what filter to use. My pre-emptive
suggestion is: hang it down about 5 degrees off of verticle, this
accomodates the clearance to the clutch slave cylinder, and use the FRAM
PH3600 or equiv. I used the NAPA "Gold" 1516 (I think) as it is a direct
replacement for the FRAM. A drain back valve is a good idea and not all
of the 3600 equivs have that valve.
I have used both approches. Currently, I am using "1" because my spin-on
filter adapter (one of the first that TRF sold, I might add) seems to
have become "pourous" and it leaks from an undetermined place. I gave up
trying to track the leak down and went back to the spin on filter the
last time I had pull the engine... it does not leak one drop now. Ask
Andy Mace (Hi Andy) - I used 1 quart in over 5000 miles back and forth to
VTR last summer.
All the stains in the garage are from my older VW Golf and when I had the
spin-on on.
> Thanks dudes,
>
> Jeff
L8r,
rml
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