Pete,
Why not try putting the cuttout switch on the Positive Cable and then put
another wire (18 gauge or smaller) that goes around it. While I am not
100% sure if this would provide the safety measure while working on the car
it would prvide a better theft deterent. If someone tried to start the car
with the cutout switch engaged, the massive electrical current would simply
short out the the small wire. While all other times it would provide the
low current needed for your radio and such.
Patrick A. Bowen
'79 Spitfire (in need of lots of help)
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Original Text
From: "Peter Zaborski" <peterz@merak.com>, on 4/4/98 3:00 AM:
This one has me stumped at present...
I recently installed one of the battery cutoff switches (as seen in the
Moss catalog for around $12). Basically you mount the switch on the neg
post and attach the ground cable to the other end of the switch. In the
middle is a threaded knob which when loosened, breaks the connection
between the two halves of the switch. Very handy since I always seem to
be disconnecting the battery for something. This way I don't have to
remove the clamp from the post. Works just great and as a bonus,
removing the threaded knob outright acts as a "crude" theft prevention
device.
Ok that's the background - now here's the stumper...
I also have a stereo which has an electronic clock and presets for the
radio stations stored in its memory. Of course each time the battery is
disconnected these settings are lost. Clever me, I thought I would
outsmart Mr. Battery switch by hooking up a ground wire from the neg
terminal of the battery to the ground of the stereo directly.
(I should mention that the stereo is wired so that it has two power
connections - one for when the ignition is on for normal operation, and
another connected full time to the brown terminal on the fuse box. This
also works correctly.)
Now when I disconnect the battery using the switch, it doesn't really
disconnect. I can turn on the lights which is something I could not do
before installing the "custom" ground wire. The lights go noticeably
dimmer than when the switch is connected, but they do stay on
nonetheless. Something is allowing the battery to get grounded through
the stereo.
Anyone have any ideas on what is causing this? And more importantly, how
can I resolve this as I would definitely like to have the stereo
isolated form the action of the switch if possible.
Thanks for any insights into this little puzzler,
Peter Zaborski
76 TR6 (CF58310 UO)
Calgary AB Canada
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