Subject: Re: TR6 door adjustment
Author: Bob Lang <LANG@ISIS.MIT.EDU> at SMTP
Date: 3/16/98 2:11 PM
On Mon, 16 Mar 1998 jbonina@nectech.com wrote:
> My drivers side (LHD) door doesn't stay shut tight after it latches.
> It pops open about 1/4" even though it's still latched.
>
> Also, maybe related, I can feel a slight sag in the hinges if I pull
> up on the exterior door handle.
Make sure the hinges are tight on the "A post" and that the A post is
"rust free". I've had cars that were rotted out at the bottom of the "A
post" that exhibited this behavior.
If all is well with the "A post" and the attaching bolts are tight for
the hinges (you access these bolts with the "kick panel" rug removed)
then either your striker plate is loose or misadjusted or the "B post" is
loose due to rust or other problems. You can loosen the striker plate on
the door or on the "B post".
> If I move the striker plate out, won't the door get "looser"?
Remember, the problem is that it latches, but doesn't stay shut tight.
It could be that the striker plate is too tight and you need to slide it
out toward the outer edge to get a better fit.
The reason I mention the last item is that the latch for the door
actually has to positions: latched and latched tight. Sounds like your
case is that you get the door latched but bot latched tightly...
You need a 1/2 inch wrench for the door alignment, you need a #3 Phillips
screwdriver for the stiker plate screws, as I recall. Those Phillips
fasteners can be a Royal PITA, and I normally use an impact wrench to
loosen them...
> Should I use PB Blaster first on the striler plate screws?
>
> How do I adjust the door so that it stays shut tight and flush with
> the front and rear body panels?
Adjust the striker plates as I mentioned above.
Warning: if you loosen the "A post" bolts, be careful that the door does
not move enough in any direction to cause the door to contact the front
fender, or you'll chip your paint there! Been there, done that.
> Thanks for the warning about the paint chipping. Unfortunately, a
paint job is needed anyway. I'll be looking for references this
fall/winter of 98/99. How much should I budget for a paint job that
would include new outer rocker panels and a change in color (back to
the original green) ie, under hood, trunk, door jambs, etc.
> Domo, domo
Japanese ^
Vidi, Vici, Veni!!
What's this ^
> Jeff
> '73 TR6 in MAss.
Mens et manus!
rml
TR6's.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent.
Consultant MIT Computer Services |
Voice: (617)253-7438 FAX: (617)258-9535 |
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
|