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Re: dash

To: jbonina@nectech.com
Subject: Re: dash
From: Malcolm Walker <walker05@camosun.bc.ca>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 10:54:18 -0800 (PST)
Cc: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net, geo@ohio.net

On Fri, 27 Feb 1998 jbonina@nectech.com wrote:

>      I wouild also like to do this WITHOUT removing the dash. Do you 
>      listers think this is possible, or is the dash removal too easy to do 
>      with all the other benefits included such as maybe re-painting the 
>      bezels, the ease of wood re-finishing on a bench versus inside a small 
>      car, etc.

I would recommend you take a weekend off and remove the dash.  You can't
use a varnish stripper with the dash in situ unless you can apply the
stuff without it getting onto anything plastic or vinyl (guess what most
of a car interior is made of?); if you use a chemical stripper the best
thing to do is to get the dash onto a bench, then let the goop go to work.

I used a paint/varnish stripper.  It smelled like it had alcohol in it (I
didn't taste it).  Also if you intend to use polyurethane varnish you will
find it has a tendency to sag when applied to a vertical surface.  When
the dash is horizontal you will be able to get away with much more (be
SURE the varnish is dry!!!), and you can probably get a very rich finish
built up.

I didn't use varnish as I veneered with teak, and the oil in teak causes
varnish to lift and flake.  the best preservative for teak and other oily
woods is oil; I used Swedish Teak Oil (not made from swedes, it's got Tung
Oil in it).  It's not maintenance free, I  have to put a light coat of oil
on every 6 months to stop the teak going grey, but I can live with
that.

You may find that after 10-15 years even the spar varnish will flake off.
My uncle makes oars for a living and uses varnish to protect them.  For
heavy use you have to refinish them every year.

Oops! I'm rambling

-Malcolm




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