Chad,
I'd check the most obvious thing first. This is of course is the
installation of the metering needles. I am not sure what the proper
settings of the ZS carbs are, but on SU's the symptions will be similar
if the needles are not set with their shanks flush with the bottom of
the piston. It makes the needles too long and not allowing them to
receive enough fuel.
Joe Curry
Chad Stretz wrote:
>
> The thread on Unisyns lead me to this:
>
> Last night my friend brought his 71 TR6 over for a carb adjustment. He
> had just replaced his needles, and re-adjusted his floats. For some
> reason, I had to back out the idle adjustment screw on the rear carb
> all the way to keep the engine from racing. When I backed out the
> front carb screw to try to balance them the engine stalled.
>
> The beast misfired horribly, and lifting the air pistons on both carbs
> revealed a lean mixture. No amount of adjustment would cure this
> completely. The chokes were closed as far as I knew.
>
> ISTR the throttle shafts being in pretty good condition, so I don't
> think they were a factor here. (I'll gladly check them again if I need
> to.)
>
> Before I started messing with the carbs, I checked the timing. I went
> from about 9 degrees BTDC to 4 degrees ATDC with no appreciable
> difference. The vacuum retard is connected.
>
> Am I missing something obvious here? I've read the article on carb
> adjustment in the VTR maintanence pages, but if anyone would like to
> comment I'd really appreciate it!
>
> I'm starting to suspect the bypass valves simply because I don't fully
> understand what they do! Temperature compensators?
>
> In the corner wearing a dunce cap,
>
> Chad Stretz
> 73 TR6
> CF7511U that except for poor gas mileage, runs fine after the same
> adjustment!
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