Ed Hutchinson wrote:
> The other day there was a question about vapor lock on a TR6 after it
had
> been driven for some time.
I'm not sure if another lister posted something like this, but I
did post a report about what I *thought* was vapor lock.
Symptoms: After a long drive and the engine shutdown and then restarted
(eg, after having done some shopping), the car would run for 2-4 minutes
before the float bowls and fuel lines between carbs and fuel pump were dry.
Priming the fuel pump by hand seemed to work at first, until one day it
did not work at all.
Final diagnosis: Upon dismantling the fuel pump, one of the valves had become
completely apart from the fuel pump housing. I credit the early symptoms
with the valve becoming loose from the housing, and after shutting down the
engine, it would not seat correctly (there being no pressure to seat the valve
correctly other than the now-minimal spring pressure). Once the valve
separated from the housing, the fuel pump suffered 100% failure.
It was an easy fix; I just repressed the valve mechanism back into the housing.
It is very hard to describe, but if you have ever dismantled a fuel
pump and seen the valve mechanism, you will get a feel for what I am
suggesting happened.
FWIW, I have driven my TR6 in very hot So.Cal. days, and in the
desert, and have never had a problem with *real* vapor lock.
As such, I would venture to say the vapor lock is not endemic to
TR6s (and by association, other TRs?).
Old tricks to deal with vapor lock are to wrap aluminum-sided heat
insulating foil around the lines and pump. Carry water and dump it on
the fuel lines and pump if you do experience VL.
Good luck!
Shane Ingate in San Diego
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