Body Solder is best for unit-body cars. TRs use trim instead of filling
in the seams (I think Jensen does a lot of this)
There's flux in the lead, so yes, you may have to worry a bit about
corrosion. The best thing to do is to use a rust-prohibiting compound (I
use Rust-Mort, Chromium Phosphate in disguise-- Naval Jelly is similar),
then use your filler, then use primer. Don't let the car sit in primer
too long as water can get through it and be trapped between paint and
metal. (= rust!)
Lead had to be applied all at once, only once. If you goof up you gotta
get it hot and wipe it off, then start again.
Bondo is flexible if it's thin. It should never be thicker than 1/4".
You also have to be sure that it sticks to the body- have heard of someone
meticulously bondoing a dent on his truck, he ran his hand over it to
check for smooth and the whole works fell out!
... too much bondo is a BAD thing ;-)
The "master" bodyworker will not have to use much filler at all. If
you're good at bashing metal, or know someone who is, go this route- the
car will be much happier.
If you have a situation where there's a hole in the metal, you have to
decide if you want to bridge it with filler, rivet in a patch of metal, or
weld/braze in a patch of metal.
Opinions and techniques will differ. Good luck on whatever you choose.
-Malcolm
Amateur everything ;-)
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