At 04:17 PM 1/13/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi All...
>
> Anybody know about anyone attempting to install Holley Pro-Jection
>or similar after market fuel injection system on TR6 or TR5/250? I'm just
>curious. In theory, bit of engineering will make those things fit on most
>6 cylinder applications. Any thoughts?
>
> Jon Lim
>
Jon,
We've installed the Pro-Jection unit onto a TR-6 and it can be a good way to
go if your building a car with the intention of driving it year-round.
Performance wise it is marginally better than stock, is much easier
starting, slightly more economical on fuel consumption, and not prone to
being upset by climbing steep grades or during hard cornering. The major
advantage to fitting fuel injection is that the system is not dependent on
engine vaccuum to function. Therefore, you can run a cam with more overlap
without sacrificing your idle speed.
That said, you would be better off to approach the idea of adding TBI
slightly differently. The ECM or "brain" that comes with the Pro-Jection
unit does not have enough adjustability built in to give good idle and high
speed running at the same time. We solved this problem by using another
injector driver from Electromotive in Arlington, VA, and scraping the Holley
box. However, Holley is now offering a Pro-Jection that uses a laptop
interface for tuning much like that available from Electromotive,
unfortunately, the new system from Holley is only available in a
four-injector unit which is too big for your TR. I'd suggest getting a
stock throttle body from the scrapyard (Automotive Recycling Center to be
pollitically correct, although alot of times the stuff you bring home from
there is still scrap ;] ), that way, you'll also get the idle air control
circuit which is not present in the Pro-Jection casting. Add Haltech,
Electromotive, or other programmable electronics of choice and go from there.
I've got the details on fabricating the intake manifold if you want,
although you will need TIG welding capability to do the job. (Have
dimensions and photos, can send you a scan if you wish.) On the exhaust
side, you'll need to install a fitting in the downpipe to accept an oxygen
sensor if you really want to get the most out of the system. You will also
need to mount a high-pressure fuel pump near the tank and run the suitable
wiring, relays and inertia switch for safety concerns, as well as plumbing
for a fuel return line to the tank. (Must be steel tubing - don't use the
plastic vapor lines for a fuel return.) Additionally, as a note of caution,
do not mount a Monza style exhaust as the pipes will be very close to the
high-pressure pump which will curtail your new-found reliability by cooking
it to death every few thousand miles. And be sure your alternator can
handle the extra load of the injectors, electronics, and fuel pump. We
installed a GM alternator along with the set up. Alternator conversions
have been widely discussed on the list as well as on the VTR home page. The
one we use is a 98 amp unit which is dimensionally the same as the 63 amp
unit more commonly used in the conversion. (Necessary if you wish to run an
electric fan, mega-watt stereo, and aux. driving lights.)
Don't let this scare you, it really isn't that hard to do it, it just isn't
a bolt-on weekend project as the Pro-Jection propaganda sheet implies.
Good luck!
Regards,
Brian Schlorff '64 TR-4 '71 TR-6 '72 TR-6 '79 Spit
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Power British Check out Power British
371 E. Main St. on the 'Net!
Norristown, PA 19401
(610) 270-0505 www.powerbritish.com/~britcars
---------------------------------------------------------------------
|