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TR4 brake problem

To: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: TR4 brake problem
From: ArthurK101 <ArthurK101@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 14:04:36 EST
Organization: AOL (http://www.aol.com)
OK.  thanks to all who responded to my earlier question.  I have done some
work but am still not sure exactly what the problem is.  Here's an update.

Brake pedal is hard as a rock.

When I open ANY (one at a time) of the four wheel bleeder valves and push on
the pedal fluid comes out.  But only when I push the pedal.  There appears to
be no sound of air going into the system when I release the pedal and tighten
the bleeder valve at any of the wheels.  After doing this and  tightening the
valve down the wheels spin freely.  (The handbrake works on and off if I apply
it after I tighten the valve but before I again push the pedal - so it appears
that the handbrake is not binding).  If, after tightening the wheel bleeder
valve I press the pedal, the pedal is hard and brakes lockup again.  I assume
that this means no air was sucked back into the system when the valve was open
and the pedal released.

My assessment is that it is the master cylinder which is not releasing the
pressure in the system.  But I am concerned about the restrictor valve which
is located in the engine compartment at the 4 way connector (MC, front left,
front right, and rear).  The three flexible hoses appear to be rigid - they
were replaced with new ones about two years ago.  Any way to check the
restrictor valve or do they not go bad? - yeah! :-).  And how can I be sure
that the hoses have not collapsed inside?

I can get an MC rebuild kit but hate to rebuild it if the restrictor valve or
a hose is the problem (according to the manuals I'll have to take both brake
and clutch MC's out of the car to get at the brake MC).  It also appears that
restrictor valves are not available from the big three (TRF, Moss and VB).

So, to be honest, I'm getting that paralyzed feeling.   Need to get this done
this week or I'll have to wait several months.  

Questions - 
1) The rebuild kit is very sparse and only includes a few seals.  Should that
be enough?

2)  If I rebuild the MC is there a way to get the insides out without taking
the MC out of the car or will the push rod and innards bind up against the
bracket?

3)  Any other pearls of wisdom?  Is it the MC or are the odds such that it is
something else?

I know this probably seems trivial to some of you folks but I would appreciate
any help.  I sure miss the old Army post auto-craft shop with a lift etc.
Doing this in my garage on the floor is a pain.  Thanks in advance.

Art Kelly 

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