Forwarded message:
From: Self <PUPRESS/CHRIS>
To: John Cowan <jfcowan@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: TR-4A - Front suspension article on VTR web site
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 15:11:17 EST
> From the article I infer that, for a TR-4A, as long as the frame
> brackets are sound it is sufficient to rebuild with TR-6 pivot brackets,
> two bolts each bracket, backing plates (bolted, not welded) and no
> additional gussets.
Basically, I still recommend the gussets for all cars, although I didn't do
them on my
car...yet.
> A couple of questions:
>
> 1. Why do you suppose the TR-4A frame brackets has two holes oriented
> horizontally, rather than vertically?
...If you look at a 4A I think you'll find that the front lower "A" arm goes in
the
forward hole and the rear lower "A" arm goes in the rear hole. The brackets
have two
holes each so the same bracket could be used in all four positions.
> 2. Assuming the parts are acquired and no major complications, how many
> hours would you estimate this job should require for someone with average
> capability?
It's about 10-20 hrs in the garage depending on how much you're doing. I
installed the
"plate washers" and TR6 pivots. Swapped out my springs and shocks. Replaced all
my
bushings. Replaced all eight front wheel studs (I have wires and alloy wheels
now). And I
installed the addco front sway bar and stainless brake lines. It was about
20-22 hrs.
> 3. Is the job especially physically demanding; i.e., requiring great
> strength or awkward, contorted body position (I've got a bad lower back)?
The basic job is not. I took off my hubs and vertical links and they were quite
heavy. I
have a bad 3rd lumbar disc so I know what you mean....expect
stiffness...especially in
winter on a cold garage floor...
> 4. Which do you prefer, polyurethane or nylatron bushings? I have heard
> that the poly bushings often have a chronic squeak.
Right now I have totally stock bushings. The Upper Inner bushings are junk. I'm
replacing them with poly. I've heard the squeak can avoided if you coat the
friction
surfaces with anti-sieze before assembly...
>
> An article in a Volvo parts catalog suggests that stiff springs add the
> least handling improvement and account for most of the harsh ride. So I'm
> thinking of putting in regular springs. What do you think?
I have to agree. I replaced all my springs with the TRF RFK777 set. I feel it's
riding
too high and too rough. I'm going to try cutting a coil out of the stock front
springs
and re-using them. I've calculated that cutting a coil out should raise the
spring rate by
17% or so over stock...and it doesn't lower it as much as you might think. I
really need
to cut the rear springs too.
Let me know how it goes, John. Thanks for the feedback and stay in touch.
Christopher M.Lillja
Marketing Associate
Princeton University Press
Tel:609 258 4900
Fax:609 258 6305
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