In a message dated 97-10-16 01:20:50 EDT, you write:
> Drove out tonight and after about a quarter mile, car stalled and
> electrics were entirely gone, as if the battery were dead. Coasted to
> safety, waited a minute while jiggling wires, etc. Hit the mechanical
> starter solenoid switch and she lurched. Got in, turned the key and
> everything worked fine.
> Drove another quarter mile and the same thing happened again, except it
> didn't come back at the ignition switch until a minute after the starter
> mechanical starter solenoid worked.
> Car has a known problem of non-functioning turn signals when the
> headlights are on.
> Any ideas?
John:
The best way to solve the kind of problems you're having is to start at the
positive post of the battery, and work your way back to the negative post,
checking the condition of each and every wire, connector and device along the
way. The turn signals failing to work when the lights are on is a classis
example of a bad connection. The turn signals them selves don't draw enought
current, but the added current of the headlights is enough to cause a voltage
drop through the bad connection large enough to stop the turn signals from
working. The turn signal flasher is very current and voltage sensitive. It is
purposely designed that way to give you a warning if a light bulb goes out.
Every electrical component in your car draws its current from the connection
at the starter solenoid. Power comes from the battery to the terminal on the
back of the solenoid, and from there to the ammeter. From the ammeter, it
goes to the alternator regulator, and then is distributed to the rest of the
car - for the most part by way of the ignition switch
Start by making sure the battery connections are good, and clean. Then look
at the terminal on the solenoid. Check it for a tight fit, and make sure the
connectors/terminals are clean and corrosion free. Check the condition of the
wires, looking for cuts or nicks in the wire where corrosion can set in, as
well as any obvious breaks, especially around the terminals. Corrosion eats
the copper, reducing its cross sectional area, causing an increase in
resistance. Often, moisture wicks up the wire inside the insulation at the
terminals where there is bare wire, and causes corrosion in that area. Move
on to the ammeter, and do the same. Continue on the same way to the
regulator, checking every terminal and every wire, and then to the ignition
switch, doing the same. Continue this routine till you've traced every wire
to its final device - lights, horn, etc., and continue on through the devices
to ground. Check the condition of all bulb sockets, switch contacts, and
ground connections. Clean the fuse holders, and just on principles, replace
the fuses. Fuses have been known to be bad, and have a high resistance
themselves, made worse as they heat up from carrying high current. It
wouldn't hurt to replace all the light bulb while you are at it.
>From the description of your problems, I don't think there is anything
serious, you just need to do a little house-cleaning. I would be particularly
supicious of a loose connection around the solenoid.
Good luck!
Dan Masters,
Alcoa, TN
'71 TR6---------3000mile/year driver, fully restored
'71 TR6---------undergoing full restoration and Ford 5.0 V8 insertion - see:
http://www.sky.net/~boballen/mg/Masters/
'74 MGBGT---3000mile/year driver, original condition
'68 MGBGT---organ donor for the '74
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