jason weisler wrote:
>
> MY 67 TR4A USED TO IDLE WARM AT 50 LBS. OIL PRESSURE. IT WAS A RECENT
> PURCHASE, AND I SUSPECTED OLD GAS IN IT (MAYBE 10+ YEARS).
> AFTER DILUTING IT HEAVILY WITH FRESH GAS AND GAS TREATMENT, IT RAN PRETTY
> WELL, UNTIL I HIT THE LAST 1/8 TANK. THEN IT STARTED IDLING ON TWO
> CYLINDERS. AT FIRST I SUSPECTED FOULED PLUGS, SO I REVED IT UP PRETTY HIGH
> TO BURN OUT MOST OF THE GAS. THIS IS WHEN THE PRESSURE DROPPED TO 15 LBS.
> AT HOT IDLE. AT 3000 RPM'S THE PRESSURE GETS BACK UP TO 50 LBS.
>
> I CHANGED THE PLUGS AND CLEANED THE SEDIMENT BOWL. I ALSO CHANGED THE GAS
> FILTER-YES MINE HAS ONE FROM THE PREVIOUS OWNER, JUST BEFORE THE CARBS.
> THIS DID NOT FIX THE IDLING PROBLEM OR THE OIL PRESSURE. I FIGURED OUT THAT
> ONE OF THE SPRINGS (RETURN) ON THE CARB CAME OFF. THIS WAS CAUSING TWO
> CYLINDERS NOT TO RUN AT IDLE. I DID LET IT IDLE WHILE I WAS FINDING THE
> PROBLEM.
>
> QUESTION IS-IS MINE DEFINITELY AN ENGINE PROBLEM. WHEN I FIRST START IT THE
> PRESSURE HITS 50 AND GOES DOWN AS IT WARM UP. COULD POLLUTED OIL BE THE
> PROBLEM?
>
> ANY IDEAS WOULD BE APPRECIATED. THANK YOU
>
> JASON WEISLER
>
> TRYING TO GET BACK ON THE ROAD
Jason,
Your problem is most likely wear. Either the oil pump, bearings, thrust
washers or some combination of all the above. If it has been quite a
few miles since the engine was rebuilt, then it may be normal wear and
is to be expected. Higher viscosity oil will tend to help, but you
don't want to go to the extreme and further damage your engine becaues
the oil is too thick when cold.
Good Luck,
Joe Curry '63 Spit
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