Hi William,
I can "feel your pain". My experience with stuck and corroded calipers
(and wheel cylinders for that matter) is that it is better long term to run
up the VISA card and go for a professionally rebuilt assembly than try to
rebuild yourself (of course, I'm cheap, so I keep trying to get by with my
own rebuilds). ANY imperfections that you leave or create in a hydraulic
cylinder can cause leaks; that's why most shop manuals state that "if any
wall damage is found, replace the component".
At 01:36 AM 10/4/97 UT, you wrote:
>
>Greetings all!
>
>Are rising air bubbles in the brake MC (while applying pressure to the brake
>pedal) a sure sign of a problems with the master cylinder? Or is it
possible
>that problems with the calipers could be generating these air bubbles and
>sending them through to the MC?
>
>I'm at wits end with this braking system!!!! When I bought the car, the
front
>calipers were locked up, one pad/rotor had gone metal to metal but the mc
>seemed relatively firm. Replaced rotors, pads, flex hoses, rebuilt
calipers,
>bled the system for hours and hours, only to have the pedal hold firm for
>about ten seconds and then quickly drop a couple of inches and then creep
>slowly to the floor.
>
>My biggest question, I guess, is if I damaged the calipers' bores/pistons
>during reassembly (the fit was extremely tight and I had to use a straight
bar
>of steel across the pistons and then drive them in by hitting either side of
>the bar with a hammer to set them in place.) Would I be looking at leaking
>calipers, or is it possible that a very small distortion is drawing air in
to
>them, then distributing the air up to the MC where I see the bubbling when
the
>brakes are applied?
>
>Any help would be greatly appreciated...this is my daily driver and I'm in
>deep trouble!
>
>Will
>76 Triumph Spitfire
>69 Triumph TR6C (whoo-hoo, a two wheeled Tri!)
>79 MG Midget
>59 Humber Super Snipe
>
>
Atwell (Buff) Haines
'79 Spitfire FM 96062
'88 Lotus Esprit
'88 Mustang 5.0
Succasunna, NJ USA
CarBuff@scooter.net
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