In a message dated 97-09-15 17:39:14 EDT, peterz@merak.com (Peter Zaborski)
writes:
> I have some followup questions regarding the Sports Coil conversion you
> describe below. (My car is a 76 - real late one at that).
>snip>
> How do I convert this set up accept the Lucas Sport coil? The sport coil
has
> no ceramic external pieice like the Lucas coil in there now.
Peter:
I have some good news, and some bad news! Good news first - you convert to
the sport coil in your car exactly the same as described to Scott. Simply run
a new wire from the most convenient white wire you can find to the + terminal
of the sport coil. Leave every thing else as is, including the "ceramic"
thing ( a noise suppressor) and the blue wire. The wire you describe as
"shoelace" is the resistance wire.
Now for the bad news - your schematic is wrong, as is every '76 schematic I
have ever seen, including the ones in the owners manual and the official
Triumph shop manual. The errors are in exactly the area we are talking about
here. If you look at item number 7, the "starter motor relay," you will find
it doesn't do anything. There is one wire going to it, and nothing coming
out. In '74 and '75, the only other years the ballast wire was used, the
starter motor relay was used to bypass the ballast resister. In '76, they
moved the bypass function to a contact on the starter solenoid instead. It
appears that the draftsmen begin to modify the schematic by using white-out
to remove the old wires, but didn't finish the job by adding in the new
wires.
I believe the white/yellow wire now joined to the "shoelace" wire at the coil
goes on down to the extra contact shown on the solenoid, just below the white
red wire. On the schematic, this would be shown as a "dot" on the line now
shown as the pink/white "transforming" into white/yellow wire, with the
white/yellow attaching to this dot, and then continuing on to the solenoid.
This would account for "this pink-white is then "transformed" into a white
yellow wire via part #9 - ballast resister." If this is not exactly the case,
something very similar to it is. Whatever the configuration, making the mods
as described above will bypass the resistance wire, with no impact on
anything else.
I know this is hard to visualize from a written description, but if you have
a '74 - '75 schematic, you will see what I am talking about.
If anyone on the list has corrected their copy of the '76 schematic, I would
love to get a copy of it, or ar least a description of the corrections
needed.
I hope this clears everything up for you. If not, don't hesitate to call on
me again.
Dan Masters,
Alcoa, TN
'71 TR6---------3000mile/year driver, fully restored
'71 TR6---------undergoing full restoration and Ford 5.0 V8 insertion - see:
http://www.sky.net/~boballen/mg/Masters/
'74 MGBGT---3000mile/year driver, original condition
'68 MGBGT---organ donor for the '74
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