Les Francis wrote:
>
> OK. I guess it's technically the drum, not the shoes. I replaced the wheel
> cylinders, associated hardware, and some brake line. Got the drums turned
> (even tho they "looked" smooth). Now I can't get the drums back on!
>
> The brake adjuster is all the way closed (that is, the two parts are fully
> together). The hand brake is not re-connected yet. The piston in the wheel
> cylinder appears to be fully "in". Using a rubber mallet all I can seem to
> do is begin to shave off some of the shoe surface.
>
> Is this the norm? I recall a recent post about this with the writer stating
> he had to pretty much chew up the new shoes to refit the drum. There was
> speculation in one reply that possibly the replacement drums are thicker
> than as originally manufactured to allow for drums that have been turned
> several times. I thought that's what the adjuster was for - to insure full
> contact regardless of shoe thickness.
>
> Thanks for any guidance.
>
> Les Francis
> lesf@metronet.com
> Grapevine TX
Les,
Did you try beveling the outside edge of the shoes? A Dremel tool works
well for this, but a file works too. How about the handbrake? Your
kids didn't crawl in the car and yank on it while the drums were off did
they? Oh, wait, that only happens in my garage.
Stopping power is a good thing.
Chad Stretz
73 TR6
CF7511U
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