Keith Ehrlich wrote:
>
> Scott:
>
> I recently had the tank in my 74 TR6 replaced ( Moss aluminum). It was done
>by a
> mechanic who had failed to adequately clean up my old tank. My car also has
>all
> emmisions removed. After the car was returned, I noticed a lot of gas smells
>in
> the passenger area while driving, even with top down and especially on
> accelleration, turns etc, and the trunk ( if sitting overnight). Since the
> mechanic had it for some tuning issues as well, I assumed he screwed up
> something at the carbs, except for that smell in the trunk. Well, I took out
>the
> rear panel behind seats and lo and behold, the fool had not hooked the
>breather
> tube up to the tube leading under the car, so it was just "breathing" into the
> space between the interior panel and the trunk panel. I was amazed how much
> fumes can be pushed out of that little hole when the fuel is sloshing around.
> After hooking it back up again to "properly" (ahem) vent under the car, the
> problem went completely away.
>
> Now you say that all emissions are disconnected, but I would suggest you pull
> the back interior panel and the trunk panel out and look. The tube might
> actually still be there. If not, feel really closely around the drivers side
> top of the tank, closest to the interior side to see if the breather vent is
> actually open. Check your manuals for exact location. If all is closed up by
> plugs, and the floor under the tank is dry, then I'd look to the filler neck
> next.
>
> Most tanks even before emissions had vapor vents.
>
> Good luck
>
> Keith Ehrlich
> 74TR6
>
> PS Was it you who was trying to figure out how to adjust the seats to get the
> levers past the B post earlier this year? If so, could you summarize what you
> found out for me?
>
> TIA
Keith:
Thanks for the ideas regarding various vapor vents. I don't think the
top
of the tank has a vapor hole. While the gas tank was out, I cleaned up
the
filler cap. I nothiced that there was a indentation/hole spacing on the
side
of the cast neck, but was not drilled through. My assumption was this
would be
for some ventalation tube to be attached to, similar to what TRF diagram
illustrates. I think I will take out the filler cap and collar and
double
check all the seals and reinstall (I had replaced the seal on the fuel
gauge cap and know I have a good seal there). Will see if that helps.
As to your question, yes I was the one posting the questions regarding
the
seat slide and getting the levers past the B-post.
A fellow lister had the answer (sorry, didn't save his/her name to give
credit).
The front of the seats bolt onto the slide rail. Each side of the seat
front has
two eye holes, one front and one rear, which you can put the bolt
through to
bolt onto the frame's eye hole. Since the frame will always slide
stright back,
if you use the back hole on the tunnel side of the seat and the front
hole on
the door side of the seat, the net effect is the seat "cocks" in toward
the
tunnel, thus allowing clearance past the B-post. If you can imagine,
now if I
slide the seat all the way back, I have a difficult time reaching the
pedals
(I'm 5'11")!
You do notice the "cocked" positioning of the seat as to how your legs
go
to the pedals, but you get used to it quickly and the added leg room and
arm
stretch is well worth it.
Scott Suhring
Elizabethtown, PA
'70 TR6
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