Chokers,
I've been traumatized by the ZS 175's and therefore wanted to read and
learn every detail about them. Currently I am rehabiliting due to my increased
perception of the choke mechanism. Far from the asymptote of a fully enlightened
ZS expert, allow me to enumerate some of my elementary wisdom of these
"suckers":
1) when the choke cable is pulled from inside the car, the choke
mechanism on the carb is forced to rotate clockwise.
2) This process should enrich the air/fuel mixture.
3) During a brief warm-up period, the knob of a good working cable
can be rotated
so that the cable may be retained in the "choked" position so that
required manual dexterity (see note on dexterity below) can be
minimized.
4) The RPM's of a warmed car are not supposed to increase when the
choke is enabled. (I was suprised when I heard this)
5) More than half of the choke valves (about 10 - my own and some
colleagues)were
placed 180 degrees out of phase. Haynes says you should rotate these
plates; I can't
see how the car can run with the plates in any other choke plate
position other than
the following:
a) you need no more than a screwdariver to check the choke plate
b) turn car off and unchoke it
c) unscrew the 2 screws holding the choke mechanism on the
carb body.
Don't worry - no gaskets or springs will fall out.
d) On the body (where you have just uncovered by c.), there
is a small
crescent shaped hole about 1/2 inch in length.
e) on the circular choke mechanism, locate the 4 holes.
f) Manually rotate( just to get an idea) the choke as if the
cable were
being pulled inside the car. Watch carefully as this is
done. If placed
there correctly, as it turns, more holes should be uncovered
over the
crescent in the body. Also, no holes should be over the crescent
when the choke is "off".
g) Your car can have one right and one wrong. It shouldn't
take much
choke to start a TR6. But performance can be diminished if one
carb is choked all the time.
h) While you're there, clean, clean, clean with carb cleaner.
6)The "resting" position of the choke mechanism is not that
important. (Although
Bentley and Haynes may become quite defensive about their respective
positions). Just
three recommendations:
a) leave no slack, that is, when you start pulling on the choke
cable, the choke mechanism should start to rotate immedialtely.
b) The should be about 1 inch of angular travel from start to
end of choke.
c) take a chance and disconnect one cable from the choke
plate of
one carb. Pull the cable again and ascertain whether the
other choke
traveled any differently now. The starting and ending points
should have
been the same as before. Try the other carb.
7) No more about chokes for now.
*Note on Dexterity:
1) I am left handed and have taken the heat for that most of my life.
2) the word dexterity comes from the Latin meaning "right" as in
righthanded
3) The word for left handed translates to "sinistra" in the Latin.
Any proud southpaws out there? And, yes. I reviewed by spelling and
changed all
the "saw"'s to "was"'s, etc.
Jeff N.
At 07:35 PM 8/16/97 -0600, you wrote:
>Jim,
>
>I seem to recall a thread recently where there was a great debate on the
>need to rotate the choke knob to lock the choke in the desired location.
>My 76 does not require this but then it has no return springs on the
>choke mechanism on the carb. I think the earlier TR6s had such springs
>and thus a twist is needed to lock the choke in the desired position.
>
>If this is the case with yours, I do not know the direction you must
>rotate the knob. If there is nothing in the owner's manual (assuming you
>have this), then proceed carefully in each direction and see if
>something desireable occurs.
>
>Peter Zaborski
>76 TR6 (CF58310 UO)
>Calgary AB Canada
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Jim Altman [SMTP:jaltman@altlaw.com]
>> Sent: Saturday, August 16, 1997 7:27 PM
>> To: 'Triumph Mailing List'
>> Subject: Choke and other questions
>>
>> Regarding a 69 TR6 (CC28754L):
>>
>> Recent purchase of car sitting up for about 20 years. I have renewed
>> the
>> hydraulics and brakes, given it a tune up, timed it, replaced the
>> vacuum
>> lines, etc. Runs great until it gets good and warm and then becomes
>> rather
>> rough and begins to smoke, but not too heavily. I have not dug into
>> the
>> carbs yet. Any obvious first suggestions on what to check?
>>
>> What is the mechanism of the Choke Cable lock. I can't seem to see
>> where
>> the locking action occurs. I presume its in the pull cable at the
>> dash,
>> but I can't really see anything obvious. Is there a way to adjust it?
>> It
>> locks all the way out, but I can't get it to stay put and about 1/3 to
>> 1/2
>> out (i.e. just enough for high idle).
>>
>>
>>
>> Jim Altman jaltman@altlaw.com non illegitimus carborundum
>> http://www.altlaw.com/
>>
>>
>
>
Jeff C. Nathanson
Director of Product Development
Manufacturing Systems & Technologies, Inc.
|