>X-Sender: tuu@cosmail3.ctd.ornl.gov
>Date: Mon, 04 Aug 1997 14:08:05 -0400
>To: "Barry P. Warwick" <bwarwick@wcoil.com>
>From: tuu@cosmail3.ctd.ornl.gov (Tim Tucker)
>Subject: Re: Naive Sandblaster!
>
>At 01:38 PM 8/4/97 -0400, Barry P. Warwick wrote:
>>Tim...you brave fellow!!
>>Ok. Lots of surface rust, bubbles, a few holes...etc. Have a 5hp, 20gal
>>compressor and thought that SB might be the way to rid me of the rust.....I
>>know that this will sound stupid but... how much sand is used, does the
>>sand and crap just get blown all over....I dont see an alternative. How
>>large an area should one work in to be safe! Should it be done
>>o/s.....remember the car's on axle stands! And most importantly...is it
fun :)
>>Related topic....can you tell that my experience is mechanical and not
>>bodywork..?? Do I need to strip all old paint to bare metal before working
>>on respray?...... Well you did volunteer!!!
>
>Barry,
>Here is what I would suggest:
>
>First, chemically strip the MAJORITY of the paint from the hood, trunk,
>doors, wings. Especially areas that are unsupported from the backside.
>When you do blast, move the sand/air stream around and do not stay in one
>place forever. Also, hold the tip at and angle to the sheetmetal part(I have
>found that this helps to avoid warpage). SB is the BEST way to rid yourself
>of rust, no doubt in my mind.
>
>Remember I am speaking of sheetmetal parts, when blasting a frame and other
>heavy guage parts: BLAST AWAY. This is especially true if you use fine
>sand(more dust but a smoother finish, much slower also).
>
>Protection from Sand: Move your drivetrain components to the next STATE!
>Sand has a unique ability to get wherever you thought it could never get.
>TRUST ME. WEAR GOGGLES and a ski mask or something to protect your face.
>
>How big an area and is inside OK: I would say big enough for the car,
>compressor, blaster, and your walking space. I have blasted inside, but
>left the garage door up and built a partition out of an old, cheap wal-mart
>tarp. The biggest concern here is exposure to free silica, which they say
>causes siliconosis(sp?). While a once in a lifetime exposure is likely OK,
>daily exposure I have heard can be bad. I would suggest outside, just to be
>safe. Or, situate a fan such that it provides plenty of fresh air while you
>blast inside. Wear a respirator, or at a minimum those little dust masks.
>"Play Sand" is free of this free silica, but I have heard it does not cut
>well. I have never used it.
>
>How much sand?: depends on the type of blaster, etc. Are you doing your
>frame? I would hate to guess on that one, but I would say that SEVERAL
>(100#)bags will be required.
>
>While not being a bodyman myself, I have sprayed a few cars. To strip or
>not to strip, that is the question? Is there rust inder the old paint? How
>many layers of paint are on the car? You do not HAVE to strip all old paint
>before applying a primer. However, if you do strip all the paint, DuPont
>makes an acid etch that I applied on my VW convert.. It helps the primer
>adhere better. That paint job is still VERY intact 12 years later.
>
>Where are you located? After you read this, email me with your thoughts.
>
>Tim
>'62 TR4 CT16063L
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