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TR6 clutch problem

To: Randy Kosow <QAGroup@aol.com>, list <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: TR6 clutch problem
From: David Massey <105671.471@compuserve.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 1997 22:15:42 -0400
Randy Kosow QAGroup@aol.com writes:

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This seems to be a popular subject these days.  I get 1/2" to 5/8" travel
out
of the clutch slave cylinder and still can't engage/shift.  I'm using the
middle hole on the fork thingy.  All new components and has good fork
pin/shaft fit. Many years ago on this same car I had to cut the pushrod and
weld in a 1/2" section to make the clutch work better - I got tired of a
clutch always grabbing close to the floor and this gave me a higher pedal.
 Prior to taking the car off the road 8 years ago I replaced the pushrod
because the hole in the old one was worn.  So I know this one (stock
length)
has worked but I possibly had it in the upper hole.  My question is is
there
anything WRONG with using the upper hole?  You gain more travel at the
expense of a harder pedal.  I plan on trying this out once I get the brakes
worked out.  Have any of you used the upper hole on the clutch shaft and
why
did you need to use it?

Thanks,
Randy Kosow
'73 TR6 CF814UO

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Randy,

I have used the upper hole for years on both of my TR6's.  Works fine.
This setting is useful on older cars where the hole in the rod clevis
has worn to an egg shape.  The additional play results in reduced
travel in the master cylinder and concequently in the slave cylinder,
too.

Set it in the first hole with confidence.

Dave Massey
71 TR6, 74 TR6, 78 TR7

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