Ken:
This an incompete idea that might get us (eventually) a good cure for this
problem. Years ago I made up a new M/C pushrod, using the M/C end of an
old pushrod, welded it together with a threaded end, and then added a
spherical rod end (female type) and adjusted it to the proper length. A
bolt then secures the rod end to the pedal arm, instead of a clevis pin.
Then I bent slightly the clutch pedal "secondary" arm so that it looked
like it would line the installed pushrod up with the cylinder bore, as the
spherical rod end has to be off to one side of the pedal arm. Now, this
whole thing worked pretty well, as I remember, but I was also trying to
track down my clutch hydraulic problem (my car eats cylinders very fast!)
and one of the variables I had to eliminate was this set up, as someone
suggested that improper pushrod alignment COULD cause rapid wear in the
cylinder. However, it was not the cause of my problem... heck... I only
had the thing installed on there for problably a week! I've long since
been driving on the original set up, wishing there was a better way. I was
on the right track, but I didn't want to create problems by solving others.
Does this inspire any ideas out there?
Pete Chadwell
1973 TR6
>
>Agreed. This is a common problem; one that I am looking
>for some suggestions on how to fix.
>
>I have a 70 & 74 TR6, and both suffer from this
>problem, putting my clutch engagement practically
>at the floor.
>
>How do people typically fix this properly? The
>holes in both the pushrod and the clutch pedal
>have been "elongated" on my cars.
>
>There don't appear to be any bushings in the TR6
>clutch pedal or the pushrod that can be readily
>replaced.
>
>Suggestions?
>
>--ken
>'70 & '74 TR6 Daily Drivers
>
>--
>Kenneth B. Streeter | EMAIL: streeter@sanders.com
>Sanders, PTP2-A001 |
>PO Box 868 | Voice: (603) 885-9604
>Nashua, NH 03061 | Fax: (603) 885-0631
|