> I was also wondering if I could use one
>washer from a .005" set and one from a standard set to get as close to >.006"
>end clearance as possible. Thanks in advance Craig Bentley (boy I wish >I
had
>Running problems)
Craig,
Not only CAN you mix and match, but you should, to obtain the correct end
clearance. On my TR3, standard thrust washers put me within tolerance, but
at the very top of the range (the most slop) I bought 0.005 over, thrust
washer and lapped them down on sand paper, mounted on a piece of glass, to
obtain a clearance on the low end of the tolerance. I figure, putting the
gap on the low end of the tolerance was worth the extra $8 for parts and two
hours of my time, as it allows for more wear time before the washers were
back out of tolerance. This may be more critical on a TR6 than on my TR3,
as my thrust washers are less prone to dropping out.
Also, one important note. I found I couldn't get consistant end clearance
measurements until I started to "set" the thrust washers. By this I mean
install them, them move the crank forward and back to allow the thrust
washers to sit flat against their bearing surfaces. After I did this, I got
consistant measurements.
One last item. Since the most wear on the thrust washers occurs when the
clutch in engaged, put the thicker thrust washer towards the back of the
engine, where the contact is when the clutch is engaged.
Before I start a war on this issue everyone, think about it. You engage the
clutch by using the hydraulics to counteract the springs in the clutch,
pressing both sided of the clutch apart. This puts a forward load on the
crankshaft, pinching the rearward thrust washer between the bearing carrier
(TR3) or block (TR6). This is why, if you drop your thrust washers, you
eventually trash the block; the major wear is in the rearmost section,
against the block.
Good luck.
Jack Brooks
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