I also put a new top on my TR6 last weekend, I followed the instructions from
the VTR web site (Roger?). All went well. I used 3M weatherstrip adhesive,
which worked great! The guy at the autoparts store called it "elephant snot".
It's a thick, gooey, snot-like contact cement. It comes in a black color, so if
you are installing a black top it looks good as well.
I'd like to offer a suggestion for glueing the header rail:
- Wrap the vinyl over the rail. (the amco top has a white line drawn on it,
which is lined up with the front edge of the rail.)
- Make sure it is centered, with no wrinkles.
- Use clothes pins to hold the top to the header rail, use LOTS of cloths pins.
Start from the center and work towards the edges, stretching as you go.
- Make sure it is centered, with no wrinkles.
- When you get everything positioned as you like, start gluing:
- Fold the top back so you can get at the underside of the header rail.
- Remove about 6" of clothespins from the center.
- cut the vinyl in 2 places, to about 1/4 inch from the edge of the header
rail, to create a 6" flap.
- use 3M weatherstrip adhesive (read the label) to attach this flap to the
header rail.
- using the above technique, work from side to side, from the center out.
Mine turned out perfectly :)
On Jul 7, 12:57pm, Cordes, Edwin G wrote:
> Subject: RE: Convertible top installation
> Jason,
>
> I also installed a new top on my TR250 this weekend. A couple of
> additional points. 1. Why doesn't the instruction sheet that comes with
> the top include even a basic picture of the assembly process, 2. along
> the same line why doesn't the top manufacturer use the same
> assembly/part names as found in the Bentley manual or parts catalogues?
> As far as your comments regarding the rear window being slack. My
> installation was similar. The top I purchased has a zip out window and I
> think this slack is a by-product of the design. I couldn't get it tight
> either.
> I agree though, for a long weekend's job (I also had to rebuild/paint
> the frame) the result was very satisfying.
>
> Ed Cordes
> >----------
> >From: Jason Clark[SMTP:gjclark@uxa.ecn.bgu.edu]
> >Sent: Monday, July 07, 1997 12:07 PM
> >To: tr8@mercury.lcs.mit.edu
> >Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
> >Subject: Convertible top installation
> >
> >Installed the new top on my TR8 this weekend. With the assistance of my
> >so's father, it took about 8 hours (including two trips to the hardware
> >store to purchase different sized pop rivets) Installation was actually a
> >lot simpler than I expected. After removing the old top, we began by
> >attaching the metal bar at the back of the rear window, and then affixing
> >the snaps on the corner windows. The pilot holes on the Crown top I
> >purchased are pretty much wishful thinking. I think I'm going to fill
> >them in with vinyl repair stuff before they decide to expand. Then we
> >glued the front of the top down to the front support piece and folded it
> >over and riveted it in place.
> >
> >For a couple of complete novices, it doesn't look too bad. I don't like
> >the way the last corner on the front turned out - I think we got the
> >crease in the wrong place. The rear window hangs a bit looser than I'd
> >like, too, but I expect shrinkage will take care of that. I also wish
> >we'd given a slightly greater allowance for shrinkage on the snaps. All
> >things considered, though, I'm very happy with the results for $140 and an
> >afternoon's work.
> >
> >
> >-jason
> >
> >Jason Clark
> >gjclark@uxa.ecn.bgu.edu
> >
> >1980 TR7 30th Anniversary Edition DHC
> >1980 TR8 DHC
> >
> >
>-- End of excerpt from Cordes, Edwin G
--
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Jeff S. Hapke Motorola CIPG Arlington Heights, IL
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