In a message dated 97-07-06 22:23:15 EDT, jhardest@infinet.com (Jim Hardesty)
writes:
> So, can I remove the whole control module simply by connecting #11 to
> #12?
Yes.
> Are there any other considerations here?
Yes.
Jim:
Cutting the WR wire and the WO wire, and connecting them together, will
defeat the interlock (looking at the schematic for a ''75, you will see that
this is just what the factory did). If I remember from the '75 I used to own,
the wires to the module go to a 12 pin socket, and mate to 12 pins in the
module. If this is correct, just tie the socket out of the way, after cutting
and connecting the WR & WO wires, and remove the module. If you wish to
remove the module, and there is no socket, or you want to remove the socket,
just be sure to insulate the wires as below:
1) the purple to pin 4.
2) the white to pin 1.
3) the green/light green to pin 7.
These wires have 12 volts on them, either all the time, or under certain
conditions, so they need to be isolated.
4) the light green/orange wire to pin 8.
If this wire touches ground, no harm is done, but the seat belt light will
come on. all the other wires are ground switching, so they can't do any harm,
unless they touch a hot wire.
Other than that, there are no other considerations.
Dan Masters,
Alcoa, TN
'71 TR6---------3000mile/year driver, fully restored
'71 TR6---------undergoing full restoration and Ford 5.0 V8 insertion - see:
http://www.sky.net/~boballen/mg/Masters/
'74 MGBGT---3000mile/year driver, original condition
'68 MGBGT---organ donor for the '74
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