Mark S. Lepore, MD wrote:
>
> Chad:
> Thanks for your responses. Could you expand a little for me?
> 1) How do you work the choke?
> >
> > It is the knob to the far right (in the group of 4 in the center
> > console.
> > Pull it toward you.
> When do you pull it, why do you pull it? The guy I bought it from also
> mentioned something about turning it to the right after it is pulled to
> make it stay. Is this true?
Use it only when you start the car cold. If everything is adjusted
right
you shouldn't need to use it when the engine is warm (at least I haven't
on 10 + TR6's). The PO is correct about turning it to the right. It
will
"lock" the choke in place so you don't have to hold it closed.
> > > 2) What are the three knobs to the left of the choke, and what do they
> > > do?
> >
> > They are controls for the heater, defroster, vent and temperature.
> Which one is which. How do you work them specifically?
I can't remember exactly...I haven't driven my TR since 9/28/96. I am
in
Korea now so I can't run out to the garage and look either. I would
suggest
you buy an owners manual for your car. They are available from The
Roadster
Factory, Moss, and Victoria British. It will answer many of your
operational
questions. If it doesn't, email me and I'll do my best to help you out.
> > > 3) There is a lot of play in the steering, although the car drives
> > > straight. What are the possible causes?
> >
> > Worn out rack / front suspension. Worn rack mounts.
> What are these things? Are they serious? Expensive to fix?
>
The steering rack (gears) is probably 250 - 400 to replace. A front end
rebuild will probably set you back about 450 - 650. If you value your
safety, a solid front suspension and steering assembly are a definite
must!
> > > 3) What RPM should the car idle? What oil pressure should there be at
> > > idle (when warm)
> >
> > About 800 rpm / 45 - 55 psi is very good. It shouldn't get below 20 -
> > 25.
> > If it does, you probably need new bearings.
> Thanks. I'm probably around 30-35, idle around 1000
I like to run Mobil 1 15W50 synthetic oil in the TR's. It holds up much
better
in high temperatures.
> > > 4) When I went into the garage this am, it smelled like gas. Nothing is
> > > leaking on the ground. Where could the smell be from?
> >
> > There are brass plugs in the bottom of both carbs. They have O-ring
> > seals
> > that go bad....especially if this car has been sitting a while. You
> > will have better luck if you remove both carbs to replace the o-rings.
> Thanks. This really helps a triumph "virgin"
> Sirmoog
There is something wrong with your reply to address. I keep getting
"undeliverable"
errors. That is why this and the previous email were posted to the
list. Please
check you reply to address.
Happy motoring!!!!!
Chad (wishing I had my TR in Korea) Jester
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