ron botting wrote:
>
> Well team, I'm approaching decision time regarding which paint system to
> use on my '57 TR3A.
> Secondly I would like to solicit input on which paint systems are most
> favored by fellow Triumph restorers.
> The following briefly summarizes my limited understanding of various paint
>systems available, I would appreciated any input, and/or additional
input on the descriptions and typical applications / instructions of
each.
>
> --- Acrylic Lacquer
Out dated paint system. Poor durability . In the process of being
eliminated in US (mandated by Environmental Protection Agency)
> --- Enamel
Out dated. Poor durability.
>
> --- Acrylic Urethane ??-- Polyurethane ??>-- Polyurethane Acrylic Enamel
>(PPG) ??> -- Acrylic Urethane Enamel (Dupont) ??
> Of all the rest above the Acrylic Enamel with the Urethane converter is
the best choice. With the urethane additive the paint will be hard the
next day. If you make a mistake you can sand it as soon as it sets up
and recoat the same day if you do it within about 4 hours. Otherwise wait
a day.
The paint will flatten out well and produce a wet look if you apply it
right. You can sand out any roughness with fine paper and buff it out
for a beautiful finish. It is somewhat more brittle due to hardness.
If you use a clear coat type finish the results are even better as far as
the looks and durability but it can't be touched up as well nor sanded
out like the above. It can be componded out but you must be careful not
to cut thru the clear coat finish. Most cars today are done with this
process and most good paint shops use nothing but this when doing a
complete car.
I prefer the Acrylic enamel with the urethane additive for overall use.
Be sure top use the proper mask and proper ventilation with it as the
vapors are potent and can cause lung damage.
--
Joe Worsley
80 TR8 DHC
72 TR6 (proj. car for retirement - after building the house in NC next
year)
Tupelo, MS
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