Steve Sutton wrote:
> Anyway, while I'm down there I thought I would take a peek at the
> thrust-washers to make sure I installed them the correct way around, as the
> Bentley and Haynes manuals are somewhat confusing. And I can't remenber.
> After reviewing the VTR page and several old list e-mails on this subject, I
> guess I'm kind of dense as I'm still not 100% clear on which way the oil
> grooves on the thrust washers are supposed to go.
> I believe that the oil groove for the front thrust washer goes toward the
>front
> of the engine; the oil groove for the rear thrust washer goes toward the back
> (flywheel) end of the engine. Is this correct?
Here is an email sent to me by Bob Lang, who wrote up
a description of this for the VTR WWW pages, but I haven't
yet found time to add it to the archive...
Bob Lang (lang@isis.mit.edu) writes:
In short:
> The thrust washers have two sides: one is steel and typically
> this side has numbers stamped on it. The other side is
> "babbitted" (sp?). The babitted side has two grooves that go
> across the babitting material.
> Installation is simple: the babbitted material should contact
> the crankshaft, and the steel side should contact the block.
> Further, when installed the steel sides should face one
> another (through the block, as it were) and the babbitted sides
> should face as follows: the front TW babbit faces the front of
> the car, the rear TW faces the rear of the car.
> With the rear main cap off, lube the new bearing with plenty of
> assembly lubricant. You cannot put too much lube on them. Assuming
> the old TW shells are in the block, push them out of the way by
> rotating them around the main crank journal. Do not scratch the
> main bearing journal surface! If you need tools to extract the old
> TW, use _soft_ tools. I used a nylon tie-wrap to push one side of
> the bearing and when about 20% of the other side was exposed, I was
> able to catch the TW with my fingernail and slide it out.
> To install the new, as mentioned lube part. Then place the
> babbited side against the crankshaft. Rotate the bearing around
> the journal and up into the hole vacated by the old TW. You might
> have to push the crankshaft frontwards or rearwards to get the
> bearing to fit. Once _both_ TW are installed, put the rear main
> bearing cap back on, and torque to spec. Measure end-float. If
> end-float is correct, double check your main-cap torque and then
> bolt the pan back on. If end-float is wrong, you can use any combo
> of TW's to take up the slack. Max end-float is .008 inches, if I
> recall correctly.
--
Kenneth B. Streeter | EMAIL: streeter@sanders.com
Sanders, PTP2-A001 |
PO Box 868 | Voice: (603) 885-9604
Nashua, NH 03061 | Fax: (603) 885-0631
|