Having just this weekend faced the uncertainty of removing the shaft
with fork firmly attached by long broken locking pin I can offer the
following solution contributed by a wiser than I mechanic...At first I
was reluctant to attempt the fix, but once begun found it to be an
easy job...took about and hour and a half...as follows.
With the tranny on a bench, and with good light, align and drill a
hole (5/16th inch +/-) through the fork toward the pin hole... you'll
have to start at an angle so that later, when you advance the bit it
will directly line up with the long axis of the pin hole. The fork is
easy to drill, and once you penetrate it sufficiently you'll have no
trouble keeping the drill lined up. (It isn't difficult to get the
propoer alignment either). Above the pin hole in the shaft (which goes
clear through the shaft) the fork has a cavity...you will feel the bit
enter this space.
The intent of the hole you have drilled is to permit use of a small
drift or punch which, being carefully rapped upon with a mallet, will
push the broken remains of the locking pin from the shaft, and out
through the other side (the side where the head broke off) of the
fork.
(BTW, the lock pin isn't a taper pin...rather is a threaded plug of
uniform diameter).
Now that you have the broken pin removed, you may still experience a
little binding and difficulty removing the fork from the shaft,
probably due to uneven wear or burring around the pin hole. With your
trusty mallet, tap the fork off the shaft (or the shaft from the fork,
as you will) and remove both from the transmission/bell housing.
Clean the shaft and fork...check condition and set aside.
Do not remove the shaft bushings in the bell housing unless they are
badly damaged...simply press new bushings from the outside in (using a
bushing tool) so that the outer edge of the new bushings just lies
inside the outer edge of the bell housing.
Take the shaft and drill the lock pin hole to 21/64th inches and tap
it to 3/8th x 24 inch fine...obtain an appropriately threaded 1 and
1/4 inch grade 8 bolt...drill the bolt head for safety wire....and,
reassemble (with appropriate lubes) the shaft, fork, etc...align the
fork, insert and tighten the bolt, add safety wire...and voila!!!!
(BTW, drilling the safety wire hole in the bolt head was the hardest
part of the job for me, once I got the courage up to start this
project...because the grade 8 bolt is just damn hard.
Credit for this snazzy fix, which (IMHO) is stronger than the
original, goes to Dave Schillerstrom at Motorhead...without whom I'd
have never undertaken the projectin the first place!
Best of luck to all who follow...
PMcQ
76 Spitfire
73 TR-6 (w/ above fix)
72 GT-6
69 GT-6+ (2)
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: FW: HELP - Clutch forks and shaft
Author: Wallnig@KR.FH-Niederrhein.DE at Internet
Date: 5/5/97 7:10 AM
At 22:49 04.05.1997 -0600, you wrote:
>
>[BOUNCE triumphs@Autox.Team.Net: Admin request: /^subject:\s*help\b/i
Admin request of type /^\s*help\s*$/i at line 5]
>
> Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 07:52:15 -0400
> From: "Jack I. Brooks" <brooks@belcotech.com>
> Subject: HELP - Clutch forks and shaft
>
> Oh yes, replace the Taper pin on the fork as well.
> These can break off in the shaft and are a B*tch to drill out and
> retap...
>
>HELP
>
>Upon removal of my tranny I was inspecting all the clutch related
>components. The PO had the entire clutch redone less than 5,000 miles ago.
>All the clutch components are in nearly new condition and I will not have to
>replace any of them.
>
>Unfortunately, however, the taper pin whch holds the fork to the shaft was
>broken. I noticed it when I loosened the pin to pull the shaft and clean
>everything before reassembly. As a result of the broken pin, I can't remove
>the fork from the shaft, as the bolt sheared partially projecting into the
>fork hole. I don't see how I can get the access to the bolt to remove it
>with the shaft in the bell housing and I can't remove the shaft with the
>fork on it. Hence I am stuck.
>
>I am concerned about just leaving it as is, because I can picture it failing
>the rest of the way on that dark, lonely country road.
>
>Since I have to cut the shaft to remove it, and the components are all in
>very good shape, I am considering having the fork welded to the shaft. Am I
>looking for trouble? It just seems silly to trash $90 worth of perfectly
>good parts because I can't disassemble them. Later, when they wear out, or
>when I do a complete gearbox renovation, I can purchase the parts and cut
>the old shaft to replace them. These parts all appear to be almost new.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>BTW - the tranny removal was a piece of cake for this 40 year old; car on
>jack stands, engine supported, floor jack under tranny. Pulling the clutch
>and flywheel, with the engine still in the car was a little uncomfortable,
>though.
>
>Jack I. Brooks Brooks@Belcotech.com
>Project Manager http://www.Belcotech.com/
>Belco Technologies Corporation '60 TR3A
>201-560-8861
>
>
Hi Jack,
I propose to weld the shaft and fork together. As you say, the PO has had
evething newly done not long ago. So nothing serious will be worn.
If you have to replace the bushings for example, you still have the
possibility to cut the shaft for removal.
I suppose, by the way that you broke the pin yourself when trying to unsrew
it. It fits very tight! I broke mine on the same occasion .. and welded
fork and shaft! My TR4 runs fine with that.
Good luck
Rainer Wallnig, (Moenchengladbach) TR4 daily
|