Greeting all,
I just built the garage Bob is talking about. My comments:
EPaul21988@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 97-04-03 23:16:12 EST, mood@erols.com (Jon Moody) writes:
>
> << Jon Moody
> '73 TR6
>
> p.s. Any other suggestions re garage building would be appreciated
Snip
> It's also a good idea to figure in the design where the shelves will go, and
> how to use the 'attic' storage. There are some improvements I would make
> after using it for awhile though.
Shelving: I scrounged retail store shelving units. Just about any
shopping center with vacant stores has abandoned store fixtures. I got
mine for the cost of renting a truck to move them. My 36 X 38 shop has
several free standing units against the walls, and 28 feet of double
siding shelving running right up the middle. I have about 700 lineal
feet of shelving to organize all the little bits and pieces. I have no
idea how I ever got by without it.
> 1. A sound deadened, ventilated area, either as a shed on the outside or in
> a corner of the garage to put the compressor in. The racket is driving me
> nuts.
Agreed. Havn't done this yet, will do so soon. Will stay in the shop. I
plan to use the board insutlation I used to insulate the walls to make a
sound enclosure. Not too small to restrict proper cooling. Still
figuring the size.
> 2. Dig a pit in one side for underside work. I'm so irked that I didn't
> think of this early enough to do it myself. It could be poured at the same
> time you pour the garage pad, or built first out of cinder block or I've even
> seen plastic liner kits sold in Hemmings. It sure would make oil changes and
> lubing easier.
Disagree. By the time you build a pit built to construction code, you
just bought a lift. A pit will not help you with suspension work, as the
car is sitting on it's wheels. Forget the pit, build with sufficient
clearance to install a lift. I built a 10 foot building with a standard
pitched roof, but spanned a truss giving my the benefit of a full 16
feet in the center of the bay.
> 3. Put in-floor radient heat into the concrete slab. This is another simple
> no-brainer that I did not snap to soon enough. If you're an average
> handy-man you can install it yourself. I build a wood shop after the garage
> and did install it there. I use a simple recirculating pump and a hot water
> heater as the boiler. Works a treat ! Imagine laying on a WARM concrete
> floor in the winter !
Agree. Strongly. I installed a radiant heat system and don't have to
imagine laying on a warm concrete floor in the winter, I have done it!
Awesome. The slab acts as a big heat sink so everything in the shop is
warm. Tools don't sweat from the temp bouncing around. You can open the
roll up door to move a car in or out, and you don't loose you entire
heat load. The air warms right back up.
> I don't know about the vapor barrier, that's not a problem we deal with in
> New Mexico (even though my water table is at 5 feet!) but it's easy to do and
> won't cause a problem so why not.
With radiant heat you need a vapor barrier and a layer in insulation
under the slab.
> Just my .02 on garages. Have fun with the construction.
>
> Bob Paul
> Corrales NM
Have fun!
--
/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - \
| Henry Frye E-mail thefryes@iconn.net |
| TR3B TCF1927 L http://www.iconn.net/thefryes/ |
| TR250 CD8096 L A Little Town In |
| TR250 CD1074 L Connecticut, USA |
\ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - /
|