I'm not qualified to answer all elements of your question, but can
share my experience in two areas.
The upper shock mounts on the Mark II/III rotoflex GT-6s frequently
rust...the upper mount is actually composed of a wedge shaped, 18
gauge, steel box which is welded to the inner fender well.
The fender well is basicly a Spitfire inner fender, but with a
hexagonal 20 gauge steel plate spot welded between the upper mount and
the inner fender for rigidity.
All three of my GT-6s had some rust in or around the upper shock
mount. On the worst case the rust seemed to originate from inside the
mount box...and had damaged the upper shock mounting bolt sleeve
sufficiently that it seemed to need replacement.
After much pondering (on the creeper, beer in hand) I took the bold
approach and cut the entire assembly, mount, support plate, and inner
fender out of the fender well. This was a pain...but in retrospect,
revealed rust working between the three layers of the rear fenders.
I cut inner fender patches from an old Spitfire and welded them in
place with my handy like MIG welder. (I wish it had been as easy to do
as it is to tell you about). My intent was to get new upper mounts
and weld them in place.
Vicky Brit is the only place I could find that lists the mounts...but
when I ordered them (Part 11-286 @ $44.95) found them to be "out of
stock". After a year I began to look for other options.
Triumphtune in the UK has a neat upper shock mount mod, a bracket
which mounts to the top of the rear frame towers and replaces the
upper mounts completely. You have to buy new, shorter shocks, but
the mod has several good advantages. a) The shock is no longer
mounted to the tub of the car (reduces flex and noise); b) The
constant working of the shock isn't expressed on the welds in the
inner fender (which, considering the quality of my welding, is a real
plus). I don't have the part numbers handy...but perhaps some other
lister could provide them for you.
You need to remove the carpets and padding...if for no other reason
than to check for rust...but surely if you decide to do any welding.
Triumptune also has a negative camber rear spring and faster rate
front springs...all of which make a nice package to up grade your
suspension.
The front sway bar I chose is a 1 inch bar...the original GT-6 bar is
smaller than 5/8th inch...I think that the Spit 1500 bar is a 5/8th
inch bar...and is an improvement over the stock GT-6 equipment.
The radius arm brackets move inward about two inches...all the floor
pans I've seen have a recess pressed in them to clear both the inner
and outer positioning of these brackets, so if you don't have access
to a rotoflex GT-6 for measurements you should be able to get close
enough by using the inner recesses as center points. Seems to me
you'll have to find new brackets since the angle to the suspension
will be different in the new position. Also, my Mark II/III cars have
a robust support bracket (heelboard) welded to the inner face of the
tub cross member at the point where the brackets bolt in place (Vicky
Brit Part 11-673) so you'll need to do more than just drill the holes
for the bracket bolts.
What you contemplate is doable, and will improve your handling...but
considering the strain on the rear suspension you'll want to do the
job right.
Cheers!
PMcQ
73 TR-6
72 GT-6
69 GT-6+ (2)
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: GT6 Rear suspension
Author: KC3565L@sprintmail.com at Internet
Date: 4/3/97 1:02 AM
Barry (or anybody...):
I have experienced the dreaded jacking (wanking?) effect of
the GT6 MkI swing axles and have been scared s***less of it
on twisty roads ever since. I just picked up a complete
rotoflex suspension (actually the back 24" or so of the frame
with the suspension still attached) and was following the
thread on this swap a couple of weeks ago. I have a few
questions:
1. How can I tell by looking at them if the rotoflex
joints need to be replaced since I gather that replacing
them on the car is a major pain?
2. Can they be replaced on the car without pulling the outer
part of the suspension, thereby fouling up the alignment?
3. There was some mention of welding in reinforcements on the
body tub. I think that was referring to the wheel well shock
mountings, so if I buy the brackets that attach to the original
shock mounting, will that eliminate any problems with the body?
I am not anxious to rip the carpet off the wheel wells.
4. I know the radius arm attachments have to be moved inward.
How big a deal is this? Just drill holes and put a plate on
the inside to reinforce it?
5. The deal included a Spitfire 1500 front sway bar that is
noticeably heavier than the original one. Is this a direct
replacement for the other one?
I have a rough axle bearing (and no doubt a trashed axle) so
I figure I may as well go ahead with the conversion since I
have to tear it apart anyhow. I want to have it back on the
road in time for the Glenwood Rallye in June so I need to get
serious about this pretty soon.
Thanks, Dave Fain
1967 GT6 (George of the Jungle)
|