Dennis wrote:
>
> My questions are:
>
Q. 1) Since the engine bay has lots of nooks and crannies in difficult
to reach
> places. How does one ensure good paint coverage in those tight corners and
> the undersides without overspaying some areas which could results in runs,
> orange peel, and sags?? I plan on using a smaler touch-up gun for the
> job and the bay is small (its on a midget (yes an MG) that has a SPIT
> ENGINE, so I'm making the engine bay all nice for the TR engine!).
> In other words, all the books say you MUST keep the gun paralell with the
> surface but practially how can one do this when spraying such irregular
> surfaces as in an engine bay??
A. The best way is to have the engine removed from the car. That way,
you can get in the bay and actually see what your doing. The touch up
gun is and excellent idea, and it produced excellent results when I
painted my Tiger. As far as sparying an irregular surface, go slow and
use 2-3 light coats, rather than trying to soak it. Also, you can never
have enough light! If you can't see it, you can't paint it properly.
Q. 2) Does my preparation schedule sound OK? Of course after
sandblasting
> I will further degrease and dewax the area with apropriate chemicals. I am
> also using clear POR15 (tinted with a small amount of the black POR 15 so
> I can see where i have sprayed), as the clear gives a better finish than
> black.
A.The problem I see with POR 15 is that it sets up rock hard. This is OK
on a frame, but the sheet metal in the engine compartment is going to
flex. I'd be worried that the POR 15 would crack and pop off. I used
epoxy primer, followed with a coat of self leveling, non sanding primer
under the color coat.
Q. 3) Any general tips would also be appreciated. The books also say
it is
> best to use a fresh air ventilated mask because of the highly toxic
> isocyanate hardener used with urethanes. I already have a respirator.
A. Make sure you buy the filters that are made for isocyanate paints.
Also, a head sock and rubber gloves are an excellent idea. If possible,
look into renting a spray booth. Other wise, make sure you have plenty
fo ventilation.
Q. 4) I also plan on making a tent around the front of the car with
clean new
> tarps to reduce the dust and crud blowing in (although I will spray only on
> a calm day). I will have a vent to also fumes and overspray to escape. Does
> this sound like a better idea than doing it in the driveway, or in a clean
> garage (I don't really want everything to get overspray).
A. The paint will stick to anythng that's in the garage, so eihter cover
it or get it out of there. Vacum the floors, walls and rafters! Damping
the floor (but dont flood it) with water also helps. Tarps might trap a
lot of dust, so buy a roll of masking paper (Dont use newspaper!!!) at a
paint and body supply place. Also, use automotive painting masking tape.
The hardware store stuff is useless 'cause it lets the paint soak
through! If your neighbors are right next t'o you, ask them to move
their cars! Don't want the vented overspray on anything that you cant
afford to have cleaned!
Q. 5) Also the paint is going to be in the engine bay a perfect finish
is
> NOT as critical as an outside paint job, but I do want to make it look nice
> especially after going to the trouble of preparing the area.
A. Using a 2 stage polyurethane will give a high gloss finish that needs
no sanding or buffing.
> Thanks much
>
> Dennis Wilson
> Hey its a chilly 65 degrees in AZ, burrr
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