In oder to lube the shifter on the TR you need to remove the shift boot, which
might involve removing the cast aluminum dash support bracket; although I am
not sure about that as I lubed mine before the put mt interior back together.
With the shift boot off, it is a simple matter to remove the 3 screws holding
the metal cover/retainer. The shifter can then be removed and the shifter and
shift rails greased. When reassembling refer to the service manual about
adjusting the shifter stops (which are the two of the three screws removed or
loosened earlier).
P.S. be careful not to lose the spring and ball bearing in the end of the
shifter!
-Steve Sutton
74 1/2 TR-6
ssutton@ridgecrest.ca.us
> From: Tom Tweed <ak627@dayton.wright.edu>, on 10/8/96 9:17 PM:
> Hello Steve,
>
> Just read Tom Walling's advice regarding tops & windows, it all sounds
> right to me, in fact I found a page from the manufacturer of the now 7-yr-
> old top on my car, and it's just as Tom said. I've seen many tops damaged
> by improper folding -- read your manual or consult a local TRiumph owners
> club about the proper folding / stowing procedure; unfortunately it's a bit
> more involved than just unhooking the header and smashing everything down
> into the area behind the seats, although I've seen that done often enough !
> That's what usually causes the side windows to be split open, if not worse.
>
> As for the moan from the rear-end gear (diff) above 40 mph, that may or may
> not be cause for concern, and I surely can't diagnose it via e-mail, but
> keep in mind that the diff is bolted directly to the car's frame, right be-
> hind the seats; and although it has rubber cushions in the mounts, it's
> still likely to be more easily heard there than the typical solid-axle
> rear-drive car like Grandpa's old Pontiac. There are other candidates for
> the noise in close proximity, as well, along with the ring & pinion gears:
> the various stub-axle and carrier bearings in the diff, and (hope it ain't
> so) the rear wheel bearing hubs as well; and don't forget the 6 U-joints.
> If you think it's too loud to ignore, seek experienced help here. One more
> thing in this area: next time you're under there, check the right front
> diff mounting bolt - they're frequently jerked loose from the `bridge' that
> they should be hung from, by a DPO popping the clutch too often, or letting
> his friend learn to `drive a stick' in it. That loose mounting bolt could
> be vibrating around down there at certain speeds, if that's a problem.
>
> As far as hard shifting, I think the linkage of the shifter can be lubed,
> but I've never done that, so don't know what gymnastics or dis-assembly
> may be required -- bu I bet someone else on this list would know, how 'bout
> it folks ? I could probably use this advice myself, as my own car makes a
> noise when shifting from 2 to 3 that sounds just like a scared ground hog's
> alarm whistle.
>
> Good luck with your new TR,
> keep the rubber side down.
> Best regards,
> Tom Tweed
> TR-250
> SW Ohio
>
>
>
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