Mark,
I just got on the list today & don't know how to post to it yet. Can you
help?
I rebuilt my 74 TR-6 about 3 seasons ago and I have these clearances as
MAINS: .0015-.0025 and RODS: .0025 I had a shop take my crank down a bit,
used undersized Vandervall bearings (or is it oversized.. I can't remember
the proper term), balanced it with the flywheel, replaced both timing gears,
chain,tensioner, relief valve, cam, and the lifters too.
The oil pump was ok and the deck was flat. I did not need to bore the
cylinders as they were fine after 85K miles. I did check rod weight so they
were all +/- 7 grams of each other. I took an engine rebuilding class at the
local JR college to do this job. They had all the tools lifts etc.. so this
worked out well. I had the shop replace the valve guides but I didn't do the
seats. At school I did the head and valves in one morning myself.
I have seen rebuilds on TR's go bad because the enthusiast did not wash the
block out carefully with soap , water, and scrub brush after getting it back
from being hot tanked. There is still micro-grit in there so be aware! I also
replaced head studs and even had to Helicoil one of them. I also chamfered
the head stud holes.
I used grey cam lube on final assy. and it started on the first try. I kept
it idling at 2k for about 20 min for the sake of the cam. During this period
a few of the new freeze plugs leaked slightly then sealed right up on their
own. Knock on wood, it's been running great ever since and I even was the
fastest stock TR at the1995 national VTR autocross last year!
My engine rebuild was needed because the carbs ran too rich due to worn
needles. I found lots of fuel ladden oil everywhere inside (grey silty
stuff). The previous owner had driven it with the funky carbs too long. One
more bit of advise: put an extra coat of engine enamel on for me. Mine looks
kinda dull as I only put on 2 coats!!
Good Luck,
(Mike Konopka) T Tone 007@aol.com
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