>Anyways, after poking around the
>wiring with an ohmeter / voltmeter I found that the flasher units seemed to
>be just fine. AAR, no voltage was getting to where it should have been when I
>flipped the switch. Ergo, the switch was bad. FWIW, this is the flip kind of
>switch, not the pull type.
Sounds like my problem (I get .3V at the relay in the flipped
position).
>(As an aside, I noticed that Bentley's manual has two wiring diagrams for
>1972-74 TR6's, one on the front of the book, possibly from the owner's
>manual, and one in the Electrical section. Both are different... Back to the
>story.)
To make it more fun, many cars have harnesses that are a mixture of
two (or more) of the different-year wiring diagrams. My Mar. '70 has the
'71 horn relay, for example, but not most of the other '71 wiring features.
>I finally wrestled the hazard switch out of the dash and found that it's an
>unbelievably simple switch! So simple that it's easy to take apart (and put
>back together). It's plastic, and the top of the switch pops right off. It
>turns out that all of the electrical parts of the switch are made of copper.
Note that the later switches had a built-in relay, from what I
remember, with a lot more connections. I think the early switches, if
available, are somewhere over $20 (the number $40 sticks in my mind).
>Copper tends to oxidize over time, and all of the contacts were heavily
>oxidized. Probably because no-one had used the flashers in a long time. AAR,
>I used a pencil-type typewriter eraser to clean off all of the oxidation on
>the contacts and on the little copper dumbbell that actually shorts the
>contacts, and lo and behold I have operating flashers!
Cool. Maybe I'll give mine a try this weekend.
--
Randell Jesup, Scala US R&D, Ex-Commodore-Amiga Engineer class of '94
Randell.Jesup@scala.com
Exon food: <offensive words censored by order of the Senate>
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