> 1) what are recomended front shocks for a 250.
Both Konis and Spax are good "uprated" shocks. Spax have the advantage
that they can be adjusted without removing them from the car.
> 2) what else should i look for or replace while i have front
> all apart? there seems to be several bushing kits around.
> ball joints? etc.
Replace it all. I highly recommend getting rid of the rubber bushings,
since they perish so quickly. Ken Gillanders at British Frame and Engine has
very nice polyurethane bushings that offer additional stiffness and improved
life; British Parts Northwest had poly bushings for the lowers (and the sway
bar, see below), but not uppers; that was a few years ago, though. When
installing them, remember to lube them - I use a silicone-based grease.
(Otherwise they'll squeak like the dickens.)
It's probably easiest to buy the complete rebuild kits and throw away the
rubber bits, rather than trying to get all the pieces individually.
If you'd like stiffer springs, order a set of red springs from BPNW while
you're getting your bushings (and the polyurethane spring pads to go with - see
my comments about rubber bushings).
> 3) anti-roll(sway) bars look like a popular item to put in
> as they were not original on 250s.
By all means. If you have the "later" radiator shroud which extends forward, it
is predrilled to take a stock TR6 bar (and an oil cooler). This is the easy way
to go; get poly bushings from BPNW for both the bar and then end links. If not,
you'll have to do a little drilling and fabbing to get it all to fit. Try to
find the bar on the list or at a junkyard, or order an Addco bar from JC
Whitney.
> 4) Lever-shocks. can they be rebuild, or just replaced?
Apple Hydraulics are the answer. If you're interested in slightly better
handling, pay the $10 premium and get "heavy duty" rebuilds. And while you're
at it, put in a set of red springs in the back from BPNW, too... (and the poly
spring pads - are you tired of this refrain yet?)
>
> 5) what else should i look for or replace while i have rear
> all apart?
Worn trailing arm bushings - poly is available. Springs. Shock links are
particularly important; if you're rebuilding the shocks, replace the links.
Diff mount bushings (Ken G might have poly for these; I haven't replaced mine
in five years, and poly wasn't available then). Worn U joints (replace with
Spicer). Make sure all the gaiters and mud shields are intact.
> 6) lastly, somewhat related, what fluid should go in the
> differiental?
GL-5 (EP) rated hypoid gear oil. Castrol makes a 1qt container which is about
exactly the capacity of the rear end.
Name: Ken Gillanders
Company: British Frame and Engine
Address: 4831 Ryland Avenue
Temple City, CA 91780
Phone: (818) 443-0939 work
Name: British Parts NW
Address: 4105 SE Lafayette Highway
Dayton, OR 97114
Phone: (503) 864-2001
(503) 864-2081 fax
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