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/"Can anyone recommend a topnotch Sunbeam lock and key person?"/
Sunbeam specific..., likely they are all under the soil in the mother
country by now.//However there are probably a craftsmen or two out there
- somewhere/. /Hopefully some knows./
/
While some may consider this barbaric I have done the following out of
necessity. Locks typically have either pins or wafers.
Pins://I will insert the key and play around with the pins until I find
those that come flush with the rotating tumbler. Sometimes pins can be
doubled up to meet that height. Other times I have filed pins to meet
that height. Generally there are also non-rotating, opposing pins in
the housing. Any tumbler pin that doesn't come flush I leave it and its
opposing pin out. While this lessens the strength of the lock to
rotation it still offers a degree of a locking effect (better than nothing).
Wafers: I find them easier. I will juggle them around so that with the
key inserted there is the least degree of wafer height outside the
tumbler. Then whatever remains outside the tumbler circumference I file
off. Again, this lessens the strength of the lock to rotation but still
offers a degree of a locking effect.
So, if all else fails.., this is at least a functional option and given
that historically locking was not a primary consideration you would gain
something even if not full strength. The free spinning lock seems like
it has no pins or wafers. The key that jams I'm not sure if you mean on
insertion, or once inserted it wouldn't rotate. That could be
corrosion/dirt or just the wrong key for the pin/wafer configuration.
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<p><i>"Can anyone recommend a topnotch Sunbeam lock and key person?"</i></p>
<p>Sunbeam specific..., likely they are all under the soil in the
mother country by now.<i> </i>However there are probably a
craftsmen or two out there - somewhere<i>. </i>Hopefully some
knows.<i><br>
</i></p>
<p>While some may consider this barbaric I have done the following
out of necessity. Locks typically have either pins or wafers.</p>
<p>Pins:<i> </i>I will insert the key and play around with the pins
until I find those that come flush with the rotating tumbler.
Sometimes pins can be doubled up to meet that height. Other times
I have filed pins to meet that height. Generally there are also
non-rotating, opposing pins in the housing. Any tumbler pin that
doesn't come flush I leave it and its opposing pin out. While this
lessens the strength of the lock to rotation it still offers a
degree of a locking effect (better than nothing).</p>
<p>Wafers: I find them easier. I will juggle them around so that
with the key inserted there is the least degree of wafer height
outside the tumbler. Then whatever remains outside the tumbler
circumference I file off. Again, this lessens the strength of the
lock to rotation but still offers a degree of a locking effect.</p>
<p>So, if all else fails.., this is at least a functional option and
given that historically locking was not a primary consideration
you would gain something even if not full strength. The free
spinning lock seems like it has no pins or wafers. The key that
jams I'm not sure if you mean on insertion, or once inserted it
wouldn't rotate. That could be corrosion/dirt or just the wrong
key for the pin/wafer configuration.<br>
</p>
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