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Re: [Tigers] exchange door locking devices

To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] exchange door locking devices
From: Tom Witt via Tigers <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2024 13:08:54 -0700
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: tigers@autox.team.net
References: <953680012.2659879.1729612926877.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <953680012.2659879.1729612926877@mail.yahoo.com> <003901db2574$bf6ce360$3e46aa20$@bluefrog.com>
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/"Can anyone recommend a topnotch Sunbeam lock and key person?"/

Sunbeam specific..., likely they are all under the soil in the mother 
country by now.//However there are probably a craftsmen or two out there 
- somewhere/. /Hopefully some knows./
/

While some may consider this barbaric I have done the following out of 
necessity. Locks typically have either pins or wafers.

Pins://I will insert the key and play around with the pins until I find 
those that come flush with the rotating tumbler. Sometimes pins can be 
doubled up to meet that height. Other times I have filed pins to meet 
that height.  Generally there are also non-rotating, opposing pins in 
the housing. Any tumbler pin that doesn't come flush I leave it and its 
opposing pin out. While this lessens the strength of the lock to 
rotation it still offers a degree of a locking effect (better than nothing).

Wafers: I find them easier. I will juggle them around so that with the 
key inserted there is the least degree of wafer height outside the 
tumbler. Then whatever remains outside the tumbler circumference I file 
off. Again, this lessens the strength of the lock to rotation but still 
offers a degree of a locking effect.

So, if all else fails.., this is at least a functional option and given 
that historically locking was not a primary consideration you would gain 
something even if not full strength. The free spinning lock seems like 
it has no pins or wafers. The key that jams I'm not sure if you mean on 
insertion, or once inserted it wouldn't rotate. That could be 
corrosion/dirt or just the wrong key for the pin/wafer configuration.

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    <p><i>"Can anyone recommend a topnotch Sunbeam lock and key person?"</i></p>
    <p>Sunbeam specific..., likely they are all under the soil in the
      mother country by now.<i> </i>However there are probably a
      craftsmen or two out there - somewhere<i>. </i>Hopefully some
      knows.<i><br>
      </i></p>
    <p>While some may consider this barbaric I have done the following
      out of necessity. Locks typically have either pins or wafers.</p>
    <p>Pins:<i> </i>I will insert the key and play around with the pins
      until I find those that come flush with the rotating tumbler.
      Sometimes pins can be doubled up to meet that height. Other times
      I have filed pins to meet that height.  Generally there are also
      non-rotating, opposing pins in the housing. Any tumbler pin that
      doesn't come flush I leave it and its opposing pin out. While this
      lessens the strength of the lock to rotation it still offers a
      degree of a locking effect (better than nothing).</p>
    <p>Wafers: I find them easier. I will juggle them around so that
      with the key inserted there is the least degree of wafer height
      outside the tumbler. Then whatever remains outside the tumbler
      circumference I file off. Again, this lessens the strength of the
      lock to rotation but still offers a degree of a locking effect.</p>
    <p>So, if all else fails.., this is at least a functional option and
      given that historically locking was not a primary consideration
      you would gain something even if not full strength. The free
      spinning lock seems like it has no pins or wafers. The key that
      jams I'm not sure if you mean on insertion, or once inserted it
      wouldn't rotate. That could be corrosion/dirt or just the wrong
      key for the pin/wafer configuration.<br>
    </p>
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