Seeing as how the battery connection is becoming a theme here, I thought
I'd add that my dad has a quick release device on the battery. I measured
V at both the battery and after the quick release and saw no change. But,
given the advice so far, this part came to mind. I will remove it too and
see if that changes anything..
Here is a link with a picture of the one that is in there.
http://www.jtsonline.com.au/wiring/terminals/battery-terminal-brass-quick-release.html
On Fri, May 31, 2013 at 10:26 AM, Smit, Theo <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>wrote:
> Hi Jay,
> When you try this again, get the system to its failed state, and then
> measure from the positive battery post to the cable clamp around the post.
> Then measure from the cable clamp to the cable itself. Do the same for the
> negative side. If you have an electrolytically corroded connection, it
> would show up right there.
>
> If you do have to work on the solenoid, just make sure to unhook the
> battery connections first.
> Theo
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > I still don't understand how if I have very little drop in voltage from
> > the battery though the fuse block, and through the ignition switch to
> > the solenoid start wire (.08V, i.e., 12.48 down to 12.4) that it is a
> > connection issue. I also still don't understand how if the battery is
> > old with low amp power, why it works when I take the power to the
> > solenoid start wire straight from the battery. And, I don't understand
> > how it could be a bad solenoid when it works fine when I power the
> > solenoid start wire directly. But, tests are cheap and I'm happy to do
> > them!
> >
> >
> > Jay
> > _______________________________________________
> >
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> >
>
>
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