Theo,
Thanks for the advice.
I decided to go with bulkhead fittings into and out of the trunk area for the
pump mounting rather than lines through grommets because of vibration concerns.
I have a short length of curved rubber hose on one side of the pump and a
vertical stainless steel braided hose on the other side to deal with any pump
induced vibrations. The pump is mounted to the back wall of the cavity with
ignition box isolation bobbins. The vertical routing tucks in nicely to the
curvature in the back wall. The battery cannot get to it even it it slid all
the way forward. I may still cover that vertical braided hose section in metal
shield (like under the trunk) just for added protection.
I ended up running the output side up just inside high part of the trunk
battery cover floor to a formed 90 degree formed curve "no loss" Russell
fitting connected to a straight through bulkhead fitting. A little different
from what I have seen others do. But this gets me to near where the original
line cuts over above the panhard rod. From there I can pretty much follow the
original line routing horizontally over to where the brake and fuel line go
through a clamp, past where the SU pump was connected and forward through the
tunnel. I will make sure all the hold down points have a rubber wrapping. I
also am wrapping the line that is under the car and through the tunnel with
Cool-It insulation tape.
My plan is to run the line to the carb up the back side of the engine bay along
the firewall. I have not yet decided on the specifics. I certainly do not want
a solid connection of aluminum tubing to a carb on a rocking motor. My current
thinking is at some point go from the aluminum line to a length of insulated
flexible fuel line like the nitrous crowd use in their setups. Any ideas from
you or anyone else on how to do that engine bay routing would be appreciated!
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: "Theo Smit" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: genepadgett@comcast.net, tigers@autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2012 9:18:40 AM
Subject: RE: [Tigers] 3/8 fuel line
That's a good idea. I cut my 5/16" line to about 3 inches long where it came
off the compression nipple, and then soldered that into a 3/8" line and ran it
the rest of the way.
I eventually found a good tubing bender that would do 3/8" line reliably...
most of the tools out there won't properly do anything near a 90 degree bend
without kinking.
If you're using aluminum line then be really sure that it's supported
everywhere, because any line vibration will cause it to work harden and crack;
and make sure that the supports, if they're steel, are sleeved in rubber so you
don't get electrolytic corrosion of the aluminum against the steel.
Cheers,
Theo
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