Tim,
The big thing to get right is the oil.. the flat tappet motors can
wreck a cam with inappropriate oil, and its all about the zinc. There
is a company that makes proper spec oil for our cars.. they are USA
based.. i cant remember off the top of my head.. but e-mail buck
tripple he and all the vintage race boys use it (the brand is someones
name i htink) they also have special flat tappet break-in oil.. i
would spend the $ and get that one.. sorry i cant recall the name off
the top of my head.
On 20/11/2011, Tim Webster <crabco@shaw.ca> wrote:
> Hi to all,
>
>
>
> There is a bewildering array of conflicting information on the www regarding
> the engine run in process. I have my newly rebuilt 260 nearly ready to fire
> and am looking to the list for what is the best way to accomplish this job
> in a way that will ensure a long and happy life for the engine (and by
> extension, me).
>
>
>
> The engine is .030 over and apart from that was restored to stock specs.
> Questions might include;
>
>
>
> -type of oil to use
>
> -length of time before oil changes
>
> -best rpm loading and duration of run in periods before allowing engine to
> cool
>
> -best way to ensure the engine will be free of air pockets (taking into
> account the presence of the heater core
>
> -best type of coolant to use
>
> -thoughts on the use of synthetic oil during run in and/or after run in
>
>
>
> It was gratifying this week to turn the key and hear her turn over without
> having to grab a fire extinguisher, if you know what I mean...
>
>
>
> Thank you,
>
> Tim
> _______________________________________________
>
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>
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--
Regards
Michael King
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